Alexander McQueen Spring 2011: Sarah Burton is Good for Business” y 11 mas |
- Alexander McQueen Spring 2011: Sarah Burton is Good for Business
- Givenchy Spring 2011: Did Riccardo Tisci Live Up to His Last Couture Collection?
- Last Night’s Parties: Music Unites Some Fashionable Girls With Major Talent at Le Bain
- October Mood Board
- Caroline Seikaly Spring 2011: Pretty Pastels
- Would You Rather…? The Little Mermaid Edition
- Protect the Check: An Update On Burberry V. Body Glove Plus The Legal Docs You Haven’t Seen
- Vanessa Bruno Spring 2011: Crepe and Hawaii Five-O
- Street Style: Terence Koh’s Favorite Designer is a “Secret Designer”
- High-Lo: T-Shirts and Trousers
- Hungry? Why Wait When You Can Eat Your Own Sweater
- YSL Spring 2011: Flamenco Season
| Alexander McQueen Spring 2011: Sarah Burton is Good for Business Posted: 06 Oct 2010 03:00 AM PDT
PARIS–My clearest image of Alexander McQueen, the brand, is the designer’s Spring 2010 runway show, which I attended last fall in Paris on behalf of my former employer. I think I sat 3rd or 4th row–I still have blurry images of those hoof heels on my iPhone. It was the last proper show McQueen would live to see, and it was spectacular. Unearthly, Godly, serpentine: he offered us the most distinct digital prints, the most magnificently sculpted bodices. McQueen’s final collection, which debuted last March, was more ornate. There were lots of reds and golds with headpieces and plenty of layers of fabric. As someone who grew up attending Russian Orthodox church services, there was something about the collection that reminded me of what the religion’s strictest priests wear every day. This season, with McQueen’s tragic passing in February 2010, his second-in-command Sarah Burton has taken over. Burton, who worked with McQueen for early 20 years, understands the delicate position she’s in. While the collection mightn’t have brought many editors and buyers to tears as McQueen’s had in the past, it certainly respected his vision while moving it every-so-slightly forward. There were feathers, lace, and several shapely bodices. For PPR, the company that owns Alexander McQueen, Burton was the best choice. While execs certainly toyed with the idea of bringing in a big name designer, they understood that to keep devotees happy–and sales steady, for that matter–someone close to McQueen would have to be in charge. While the label was nearly always in the red, the last few seasons have been profitable. And they’ll continue to be, as long as fashion lovers feel that they need to grab hold of a piece of McQueen, before his work is gone forever. What did you think of the collection?      
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| Givenchy Spring 2011: Did Riccardo Tisci Live Up to His Last Couture Collection? Posted: 06 Oct 2010 02:04 AM PDT
PARIS–What is the designer Riccardo Tisci's mission at Givenchy? Was he hired to create an entirely new brand, or does he have to incorporate some of the house's heritage into his thinking? Should his collections have something to reminisce the past? Or is it his prime directive simply to follow his instincts and make fashionable clothes destined for those looking for a chic outfit and great shoes? In the five years since he took over the creative helm at Givenchy, I think it's clear that Mr, Tisci is choosing to make it an ultra chic fashion brand, one that is respected among high society. And more importantly, a brand that also has street credibility. It's critical for the designer to appeal to both ends of the spectrum. Too aristocratic and he will be accused of succumbing to the bourgeoisie Too street and they will say he doesn't understand or fit into a French high fashion house. That said, the collection he showed late Sunday night–where a black plastic mat with white lines covered the wooden floor of the gymnasium of the Lycée Carnot–was more of an ode to street fashion than clothes that will satisfy the couture set. And in this manner, I think the show pushes the Givenchy label further into the avant-garde realm. Layering was the dominant cord tying together many vestiges of the collection: a white sleeveless short vest, over a black sleeveless hip length jacket, over a black cropped zippered shirt (worn with a black short skirt and black wool flare pants); a sleeveless leather biker, over a sleeveless leather shirt and sheer chiffon long blouse (worn with white cotton flare slim pants and a white chiffon overlay skirt); a leopard vest, over a leopard blouse (worn with cotton leopard shorts and a leopard chiffon overlay skirt. Well, you get the idea. Much like his menswear, for which he’s made the skort a Givenchy classic, Mr. Tisci's resolute vision for his womenswear is garnering similar accolades and followers among younger women who want chic, cool, and sexy clothes but nothing that spells over-the-top sexiness. His pants and skirts with fold-over flaps and his black jackets are quickly becoming Givenchy classics as well. At a recent photoshoot, the R&B multi-platinum singer Ciara told me that his clothes make women feel sexy, but they’re not overtly sexy. That would describe the clothes I saw on Sunday. On the way to the car at the exit of the show, several colleagues reprimanded me for defending a “bad” collection. Sure, the leopard prints may be a problem, since there were probably more spectators wearing something leopard than outfits shown on the runway. Sure, I have seen many young women in the Lower East Side wearing those sheer silk nylon overlay skirts worn on top of their cut-off shorts. And I did concede that this look–a black sheer chiffon cape over a sheer chiffon and leopard print cut out bustier slip top (worn with black shorts with sheer chiffon pants overlay)–was a mess. But on the whole, there's something courageous about sticking to one's own guns and vision rather than changing every time the wind blows in a different direction.
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| Last Night’s Parties: Music Unites Some Fashionable Girls With Major Talent at Le Bain Posted: 05 Oct 2010 04:00 PM PDT
Mia and Caitlin are the girls in this Alice + Olivia video that you probably saw in cabs a million times if you were in New York during fashion week. Their performance was ten times cooler live. Caitlin jumped on top of the DJ booth and violin’d her little heart out in sync with Mia’s mixes of MGMT, Daft Punk and the like. And she looked amazing the entire time. It was kind of mind-blowing. Songstress Diane Birch made our New York Fashion Week Best Dressed list even though we didn’t really know who she was. We do now. Her look is sort of a softer, more refined version of Alexa Chung, but not in a copycat way. She definitely has her own thing going on and seems to be on her way to becoming a fashion force to be reckoned with. She’s already graced the pages of British Vogue. Oh, and she can sing. Really well. However, her gospel-meets-pop ballads were a little odd in a party setting and following Mia and Caitlin’s high-energy performance. It was fine, though, because she was wearing an amazing sequined jacket. All the girls wore super cute jewelry by Tuleste whose sister designers Satu and Celeste Greenberg are in talks to create an official Music Unites bracelet a la the Livestrong wristband. We went into the party not knowing if it would really be up Fashionista’s alley and came out wanting everything the three performers were wearing and reminded that music and fashion can go so, so well together. All photos © David X Prutting / BFAnyc.com.             
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| Posted: 05 Oct 2010 03:00 PM PDT
Check out what’s inspiring us this month.
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| Caroline Seikaly Spring 2011: Pretty Pastels Posted: 05 Oct 2010 02:00 PM PDT
After leaving Lagerfeld, Seikaly launched her eponymous collection. The first piece she designed was her own wedding dress. Her Spring 2011 collection, which I saw yesterday in an airy studio at Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, consists of mostly short, pastel cocktail frocks. In them, you can see her preference for the pretty. But what you can’t see is the influence of her teachers. (Well, maybe a little of Lagerfeld at Chanel.) Seikaly’s pieces are distinctly feminine, in a way only a woman can design. (My favorite was clearly the lace, backless dress.)           
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| Would You Rather…? The Little Mermaid Edition Posted: 05 Oct 2010 01:30 PM PDT
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| Protect the Check: An Update On Burberry V. Body Glove Plus The Legal Docs You Haven’t Seen Posted: 05 Oct 2010 01:00 PM PDT
According to legal docs obtained by Fashionista, Burberry is accusing the defendants of “willful infringement of Burberry’s famous, federally-registered BURBERRY CHECK trademarks.” Burberry claims that by making and selling the copycat cellphone cases, the defendants are capitalizing on the “goodwill and fame” associated with the check; misleading consumers and diluting the value of the check. Burberry takes their check very, very seriously. In addition to an extremely specific description of the check (seen below), there are eight separate “principal registers” from the United States Patent and Trademark Office, registered between 1983 to 2004, included in the documents. The check is the same but the coloration assigned to particular garments warrants separate trademarks. One register is for socks, for example. These documents make up “Exhibit B.” Exhibit A features images of Burberry-produced items that bear the check, while Exhibit C shows images of Body Glove’s infringing phone cases.        
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| Vanessa Bruno Spring 2011: Crepe and Hawaii Five-O Posted: 05 Oct 2010 12:30 PM PDT
So when Bruno’s Spring 2011 collection, which seemed to be inspired by Hawaii Five-O, came down the runway, I wanted nearly every darn thing. The favorites: A white crepe suite, a Hawaiian-print suit, and a crocheted top with a Hawaiian-print skirt. Sounds gauche? Not when Bruno’s behind it.                     
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| Street Style: Terence Koh’s Favorite Designer is a “Secret Designer” Posted: 05 Oct 2010 12:00 PM PDT
Occupation: Artist What is your favorite dessert? Coconut cake How do you take your coffee? I don’t drink coffee. Who is your favorite designer? A secret designer Where are your glasses from? They are vintage and I replaced the frames with mirrors. Where are your pants and bag from? Dickies and the bag is Margiela.    
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| High-Lo: T-Shirts and Trousers Posted: 05 Oct 2010 11:30 AM PDT We love fall’s new grown-up trousers, but we never want them to look too precious. That’s why a soft, slouchy t-shirt is the perfect top to our new bottoms. Here are a few of our favorite pairings:
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| Hungry? Why Wait When You Can Eat Your Own Sweater Posted: 05 Oct 2010 11:09 AM PDT  Photo by Giovanni Giannoni for WWD We are so sad to have missed this. Models eating! Eating the actual clothes they are modeling! An edible knitwear line called Bless presented their collection yesterday in Paris. Models wore/noshed on colorful mesh vests, the weave made of strings of jelly. According to WWD, accessories at the presentation were conducive to eating, too. Cocktail rings were shaped like cups to hold dipping sauces for hors d’œuvres. Or the next time you drive-thru McDonald’s for chicken McNuggets you can put all your assorted sauces in your cup rings (though, maybe you won’t since nuggets actually look like this) and eat your sweater for dessert. Yum. We wouldn’t be surprised to see Russell Brand eating a Bless edible knit dress off of Katy Perry on a red carpet in the near future.
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| YSL Spring 2011: Flamenco Season Posted: 05 Oct 2010 10:30 AM PDT
In a season when other designers have been inspired by his master’s Le Smoking suit, safari jackets, and other ’70s styles, Pilati looked to the archives with flamenco dresses and perfect pants. The collection, shown in an impossibly small but extravagant room in Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, was mix of black, white and jewel-toned colors. The shoes in particular–several styles of shapely wedges–are sure to be a hit. As will the not-so-ordinary workwear. The flamenco dresses? Editorial perfection. Former YSL exec, current Barneys CEO Mark Lee, sat right across from me during the show. His kept a poker face, but there’s no doubting Barneys will be buying YSL yet again this season.
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Full disclosure: I did not attend the Alexander McQueen Spring 2011 runway show. I had assigned the piece to another writer, who was forced to back out at the last minute. So my ideas are drawn from images, as well as the first-hand knowledge I already possess of the house and the company that owns it, PPR.
Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of 
PARIS–Caroline Seikaly has quite an interesting background. She studied at RISD, interned with 
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PARIS–Stefano Pilati’s reign at Yves Saint Laurent can’t be described as anything else but a roller coaster. Sometimes he’s lauded, at other times mocked.
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