The American Masters: Michael Kors, Reed Krakoff, Ralph Lauren and Isaac Mizrahi” y 11 mas |
- The American Masters: Michael Kors, Reed Krakoff, Ralph Lauren and Isaac Mizrahi
- First Look: Emilio de la Morena, Twenty8Twelve and Craig Lawrence Spring 2011
- Felder Felder and Hannah Marshall Duel (?) at the BFC Tent
- Jeremy Laing’s Most Brilliant Effort Yet
- New York Fashion Week: The Ten Best Collections
- Street Style: Susie Bubble is a Vision
- Last Night’s Warholian Parties: Toasting the End of NYFW
- Yigal Azrouël’s Cleaned Up Cool
- Jeremy Scott Shows Collection Inspired by Trash (and Gaga?) to Star-Studded Front Row
- Fashion News Roundup: Lily Allen’s Vintage Store, MK & A on Ellen and DVF Has a Home Collection
- Three Questions For…Jean-Michel Cazabat
- Take a Wild Ride With Betsey Johnson
| The American Masters: Michael Kors, Reed Krakoff, Ralph Lauren and Isaac Mizrahi Posted: 18 Sep 2010 07:00 AM PDT
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| First Look: Emilio de la Morena, Twenty8Twelve and Craig Lawrence Spring 2011 Posted: 18 Sep 2010 05:58 AM PDT
Twenty8Twelve, designed by Sienna Miller’s sister Savannah, was fun in a Marc by Marc Jacobs sort of way, but it lacked the necessary tounge-in-cheek element. Quite a few looks were cute–a yoked denim blouse, cat-eye sunglasses, a denim circle skirt pumped up by crinnoline, Jude Law–but nothing was must-have, particularly at Twenty8Twelve’s contemporary price point.
My favorite look, though, was the last one–a mint green leather baby doll dress topped with a mint green cropped jacket. Morena’s take on the suit, if you will.
Now it’s time for Topshop Unique! Be back soonest!
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Felder Felder and Hannah Marshall Duel (?) at the BFC Tent Posted: 18 Sep 2010 12:24 AM PDT
Luckily for labels Felder Felder and Hannah Marshall, who showed together on Friday at Somerset House in the British Fashion Council’s tent, their visions are unique enough not to blur. Felder Felder showed its collection first, a fun, surf-inspired romp that was a little bit party girl–short, feather skirts in bold colors like royal blue and berry–and a little bit princess with long, sparkly, starry night-dresses. (The colors and shapes of the first ten looks or so reminded me of Proenza Schouler Spring 2010.) It was a wearable collection, if not totally memorable. Marshall’s, conversely, was both wearable and memorable. Well, as long as one was to put a slip or tank underneath those completely sheer blouses and dresses. Marshall could be called a goth minimalist, if that exists. Her work is mostly black and grey–a dove-colored shirt-dress was a standout–but it’s not gaudy. As for the crowd, they seemed pleased–and excited. While London is certainly not as organized as New York’s Fashion Week, it has a certain energy that’s unmatchable. I have a marathon of shows today, so I’m looking forward to seeing it in full swing.
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Jeremy Laing’s Most Brilliant Effort Yet Posted: 17 Sep 2010 11:28 PM PDT
Now if we were to move this metaphor to the realm of contemporary fiction, it should not be Johnathan Franzen's face on the cover of Time, it should be Jeremy Laing's. I've followed Laing's work for four years, and this is at once his most sophisticated collection to date, and his most wearable. It is also beautiful, sometimes astonishingly so. In a single piece, Laing has tied together contrasting materials and knits with a deftness that bespeaks the thoughtfulness and engagement of an artist, not just a designer. Like the tank dress made of hand-knit leather strips, a lengthened version of a sailors tank with not two but three versions of the knitted material in the same garment. If we go back to our story, this is sentence structure at the level of Fitzgerald. Sometimes, it's a look, and not a dress that's Laing uses to toy with our perceptions, like the orange satin flag dress with a trapping skirt made of whitewhashed linen. This is a dress with which to make an entrance, a statement, a scene, and yet it's lighter than smoke, and trails off with similar grace. And sometimes it's a single piece in a single knit that leaves us with that delicious agony of wanting to find out what happens, but not wanting the story to end. The mesh knit hitched dress in cotton cashmere is such an example (look for the model with the doo-rag), as is the immaculate black swoop gown, made of viscose jersey, which exists at the meeting place of sex and elegance. And then there's the single print of the collection (previously, Laing has collaborated with printmaker Calla Haynes)—a rose taken from Laing's grandmother's coffin and then scanned—hauntingly and yet defiantly gracing a silk jersey tee shirt dress. With the entire collection, Laing is looking at the bigger picture, revealing a designer who cares desperately about the woman wearing his clothes, and not just the pieces themselves. There are attainable truths hidden in his cuts, in the dresses' movements, their silhouettes. And therein lies the real triumph of this collection: without losing his ambition, Laing is moving further away from imagining what we can be, and like Franzen, he's telling us who we are.             
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| New York Fashion Week: The Ten Best Collections Posted: 17 Sep 2010 03:30 PM PDT
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Street Style: Susie Bubble is a Vision Posted: 17 Sep 2010 01:00 PM PDT
What is your favorite dessert? Affogato   
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Last Night’s Warholian Parties: Toasting the End of NYFW Posted: 17 Sep 2010 12:00 PM PDT
First of all, I don’t understand places like the Hudson Hotel and Tribeca Grand. Do people actually, like, check into rooms and sleep there? With loud, crazy parties going on all over the hotel every night, who would want to? Just curious. We started the night at the Hudson’s Library for a party that had something to do with W, as there were copies of the October issue scattered about tables and fireplace mantles. The crowd was international, leather-clad, and kind of rude. After that, we stopped by the L.A.M.B. after party in a gallery on West 13th. It was really cool, and not just because Kanye was mingling with Marc Jacobs. “Icons Revisited,” a clearly Warhol and Banksy-inspired show by street artist Mr. Brainwash, was on display throughout the venue (see pics below), and the whole party had a really fun, casual vibe that was refreshing after so many stuffy, crowded, dark clubs. I felt like I could have been at some Bushwick loft party…that Marc Jacobs and Kanye West were at. After that, we walked down a couple of blocks to a not-yet-open-to-the-public club called Tzigan for Dom Perignon’s New York Fashion Week closing party with a tribute to Andy Warhol. The only other time I’ve had Dom was when my roommate’s dad sent her a bottle for her birthday and we had just moved into our apartment and didn’t have any glasses, but were so excited that we drank the entire bottle out of plastic cups from the 99 cent store. This party was a very different experience, as in there were candles, rare Andy Warhol portraits, a Brillo pad installation and Courtney Love. Unfortunately, I could only take a couple of sips as I was already pretty champagned-out at that point and had been dog tired since, well, Monday. It’s been real, NYFW! See you in February. Cheers!        
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Yigal Azrouël’s Cleaned Up Cool Posted: 17 Sep 2010 11:00 AM PDT
The Israeli-born Azrouël, whose toying with vintage in the late nineties led him to a women's line in 2003, followed by his first men's collection in 2007, is known for his well-worn, salvaged, and distressed looking garments. And while he hasn't moved too far from his base with Spring/Summer 2011, he's playing with a cleaner look. None of the sleeveless jackets I had seen this year made much of an impression on me (same goes for the tunics, ugh), but Azrouël's green sleeveless trench had the right balance of military and modernity, and gave me pause. His take on the short-sleeved chambray, using separate materials for the sleeves as the body, was a miss, as were his oddly zippered sheepskin vest and his dropstitch crewneck sweater. But his woven, white, roomy tees were appealing, as were his gingham apron pocket shorts (ending mid-thigh), their jersey knit counterparts, and my personal favorite, a boy's romper, which he called a "jumpsuit" but was short sleeved and cut off at the knees (more on that later). These are clothes for a relaxed, but very confident downtown kind of guy. Maybe an actor. Maybe a graffiti writer. Maybe a carpenter. He's someone who knows where the good bars are, but his rooftop is where you really want to hang out. **All photos by Monica Feudi from GQ.com
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Jeremy Scott Shows Collection Inspired by Trash (and Gaga?) to Star-Studded Front Row Posted: 17 Sep 2010 10:30 AM PDT
Kelly seemed cheery and said to my section, “Is everyone good? You like my $100 Jeffrey Campbell shoes? Recession chic.” Kanye seemed pleasant and happy to be there and Solange looked pretty and really skinny. Oh and Waris Ahluwalia and Terence Koh sat across from me and are thus in every one of my pictures of boys in assless chaps and girls in trash bag outfits, which I find pretty amazing. The collection appeared to be inspired by trash. Or was it a literal interpretation of “streetwear?” There were shirts that said “Help Wanted” and “For Rent,” others that looked like movie ticket stubs and grocery bag-inspired dresses that said “Thank You For Shopping Here!” and “F*ck You” (without the asterisk) instead of “Thank You.” There were dresses with skid marks and rain coats with footprints. There were also cone bras and lots of black leather and the hair and makeup was so exactly what Gaga is doing right now (on her off-time, like when she’s at baseball games or the airport) and there just had to be some sort of connection because Jeremy Scott showed two outfits that appeared to be made out of bacon. Oh, and the last look was a straight jacket wedding dress. The whole situation was ridiculous and amazing. Easily the most entertaining show of the week.               
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Fashion News Roundup: Lily Allen’s Vintage Store, MK & A on Ellen and DVF Has a Home Collection Posted: 17 Sep 2010 10:15 AM PDT
Shoe Mecca: Next Thursday, British department store Selfridges will open the largest shoe department in the world. The 4,000+ shoes will include over 30 exclusive styles. And that’s not all. An architect designed 11 individual “apartments” for major labels like Louboutin and Chanel. {Style List} Gabourey Sits Front Row: Apparently, there was a plus-sized fashion show in New York on Wednesday night. Controversial cover girl Gabourey Sidibe sat front row and former ANTM contestant Toccara Jones walked the runway. {Daily Mail} Fashion Designers Turned Interior Designers: The Aldyn, a fancy new building on the Upper West Side, invited a group of CFDA members do decorate rooms for charity. Starting September 21, you can see the showhouse, which includes a preview of the never before seen Diane von Furstenberg home collection. Admission is $25. {Racked}
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Three Questions For…Jean-Michel Cazabat Posted: 17 Sep 2010 10:00 AM PDT
We caught up with Cazabat post-show: Fashionista: What was it like to do your first presentation? What was your focus for the season? People love your look. Would you ever consider doing a mass capsule collection? Click through for a gallery of some looks from Jean-Michel Cazabat’s Spring 2011 collection.      
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
| Take a Wild Ride With Betsey Johnson Posted: 17 Sep 2010 09:37 AM PDT
But rather than produce a small, modest SS11 show, Betsey went absolutely all out. From bicycles, video features, and blaring music, the show was more of a party than a proper runway show. Starting with a short movie of Betsey riding a bicycle around Lincoln Center, and later footage of Betsey and her daughter Lulu teaching Betsey’s granddaughter Layla, to ride a bike, it was the clear theme of the show. Models wore “RIDE ME” necklaces, bike hats, and bike chains as accessories. If biking is not your scene, there were plenty of Betsey’s signature frilly dresses to hop around town in. Available in white, black, florals, and neons the array of over-the-top ensembles was just the kick that NYFW needed. In previous seasons Betsey has tried to tone down her kooky style into wearable options that never quite worked, but this season her crazy styles looked perfect coming down the runway. And for the critics who’ll say Betsey’s looks are completely unwearable for anyone over sixteen, there were plenty of looks for grown-ups.       
This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
The bold-face names in American design always show at the end of New York Fashion Week: Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Isaac Mizrahi, and the newest member of the club, Reed Krakoff. Here, a quick recap of their Spring/Summer 2011 collections.
LONDON–The second day of #lfw is shaping up to be an impressive one, and we’re only half-way through. This morning, I first traipsed off to Twenty8Twelve by S. Miller, so let’s start there.
Emilio de la Morena, on the other hand, was completely covetable. Fan Julia Restoin Roitfeld sat front row, as did Charlotte Dellal in what I can only imagine was a pair of leopard striped Charlotte Olympia plattforms. The glitterati were, I can assume, not dissapointed in what they saw. Yes, Morena may be best known for prints and little party dresses, but he’s just so much more than that. The designer did a lot in leather, punched in a graphic eyelet that looked new to the eye (unlike the eyelet I saw used in New York.) Some leather dresses were embellished with a sheer peplum, while others featured flat, large pieces of what looked something like cut colored glass at the neckline.
Soon it was time head back over to Somerset House. (
LONDON–Here’s the thing with group catwalk shows: While typically less expensive and sometimes more efficient, they leave the audience to compare the different collections in a more intimate way than they would otherwise.
Often when we're examining at a collection, what we're looking for is a story. We want a cohesive a narrative, real, logically behaving characters, solid structure, and themes we can take home. We look for fantasies, realism, biography and references. If we can find the story, we can begin to dissect what it means to us, to fashion, in this time and place, and then we get to retell it, as do you, right down to the fashionista who actually buys and wears the piece–then it becomes their job to tell the story anew.
New York Fashion Week is officially over. Soon, we will be sharing with you the very best from London, but for now it is time for a recap. After much deliberation, we present our ten favorite New York collections. Enjoy!
Name: Susie Lau
Last night, despite tornadoes and sheer exhaustion, I zipped uptown to the Hudson Hotel and then over to the meatpacking district for New York Fashion Week’s final parties.
If the spelling and grammatical errors in Yigal Azrouël's press materials were an indicator of a collection that has not been completely thought out, there were enough innovations, and engaging pieces, to let this failing slide.
The media frenzy at Jeremy Scott, orchestrated by the very hard-working Emily, Robyn and Kelly of 
Lily Allen’s New Fashion Career: Allen and her sister Sarah Owen toasted the opening of Lucy in Disguise, the former musician’s new vintage retail venture. When asked why vintage, she responded, “Well a) we love vintage and b) we’re not clothing designers. It’s as simple as that really.” Fair enough. {
Shoe designer 
With Betsey Johnson’s 
| You are subscribed to email updates from Fashionista To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
| Google Inc., 20 West Kinzie, Chicago IL USA 60610 | |
No hay comentarios:
Publicar un comentario