jueves, 9 de septiembre de 2010

The Turtle is the New Smize and Other Lessons Learned At Breakfast With Tyra And Andre Leon Talley” y 11 mas

The Turtle is the New Smize and Other Lessons Learned At Breakfast With Tyra And Andre Leon Talley” y 11 mas


The Turtle is the New Smize and Other Lessons Learned At Breakfast With Tyra And Andre Leon Talley

Posted: 09 Sep 2010 07:00 AM PDT

To hype last night’s premiere of America’s Next Top Model Cycle 15, the high fashion cycle, Tyra Banks and Andre Leon Talley treated editors to a lovely breakfast at Marea in midtown and sat down to chat with us candidly over scrambled eggs and the most delicious pecan sticky buns. (They also looked amazing–Tyra was in clingy gray McQueen shift, ALT was in Prada and Lacoste.)

You might think Tyra and Andre would be an intimidating pair (at least I did), but their more like a comedy team. And we learned some valuable, hilarious, lessons from them.

Lesson One: Turtle before you smize.
The smize is undeniably important–cycle after cycle of Top Model hopefuls aspire to get it right, and few do. But before you smize, turtle. This goes for models and non models alike. Tyra demonstrated that when a photo is being taken of you head-on you must jut your face out, like a turtle, and the results will be amazing. Most people have a tendency to lean back and smile, which creates extra chins. The turtle thins our your face, and the camera will capture your best self instead your self with three chins. Just don’t get caught doing the turtle on a profile shot. Because then you’ll just look like a turtle.

Lesson Two: Bring your own lighting.
When photographer Matthew Rolston came to set as a guest judge, be brought along more than his camera. “Matthew Rolston came to set with this chic little bag and he sat down and it held his own portable lighting system. Not one, a bank of three lights,” said Talley. “Not even Marlene Dietrich did this. This was beyond. It’s a new trend. Forget your makeup, take your own lighting. It worked.”

Lesson Three: If you are ever looking to scare Tyra Banks, present her with a bird or a dolphin.
One editor asked Tyra which of the challenges of the last 15 cycles would be the most difficult for her to master. She didn’t hesitate: The one with the birds. “Ooh child, the birds!” she said. “There was one challenge where the girls had to be posed with birds. That is one of my worst fears. And cats, fish, whales and dolphins.”

Lesson Four: Cycle 15′s winner will have a high fashion career.
“My dream is for her to be a real high fashion girl,” said Tyra. “I want [her to be in] French Vogue and Italian Vogue and even Japanese Elle. I want her to be on the runway for Prada and YSL and Dolce and Gaultier and Balenciaga and McQueen.”
Because this season has a high fashion bent Tyra selected girls who fit the mold. “I’m attracted to the odd face, but there are certain limitations with having a show that was a little more commercial. Now it’s high fashion and I was allowed to have the ears that really stuck out and the girls that have more quirk that I’m personally attracted to.”



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Gap Goes Upscale With a Valentino Collaboration

Posted: 09 Sep 2010 06:00 AM PDT

Gap and Pierre Hardy just works. Gap and Valentino? We’re not so sure. The world’s biggest specialty retailer is teaming up with the historic fashion house to create a capsule collection, which will be available in a few of its European stores. (The US flagships are not scheduled to receive a shipment, unfortunately.) The partnership was formed to celebrate the opening of the new Gap stores in Milan and Rome. The launch will take place in November at the retailer’s new Milan flagship, but pieces will also be available at Colette, Dover Street Market, and Gap’s London flagship.

I was living in London when Gap did something similar with Roland Mouret and I will say that the results were impressive. And of course no one can forget Phoebe Philo’s “European collection” for the brand. But Mouret’s dresses are structured and Philo’s a minimalist–those looks were slightly easier to recreate in a knit than a silky blouse or ruffly frock, which is what the new Valentino team is best known for. It’ll be interesting to see what they turn out.

Related:

The Gap Gets Good
Gap’s New Pierre Hardy Wedges Cost $195, Hit Stores October 19
Waiting for Madonna at Valentino



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Shop It To Me Is Our Fashion Week Wardrobe Savior

Posted: 09 Sep 2010 06:00 AM PDT

It goes without saying that, as fashion editors, we need to buy at least a couple new pieces for New York Fashion Week. And usually it ends up being more than a couple.

Leah was after the perfect black dress for a party we’re co-hosting for Timo Weiland, and Lauren needed a pair of perfect wool trousers. (Even though, let’s be real: She might be a bit uncomfortable in the 85 degree heat. Anything for fashion, right?)

Luckily, we had the good fortune to be outfitted for Fashion Week by the team behind Shop It To Me, an incredible website that sends you alerts when pieces by your favorite designers go on sale.

Lauren found a long, black crepe skirt from Vanessa Bruno as well as a pair of gray felt wool Michael Kors trousers–both via The Outnet–a Vena Cava dress from Barneys New York, and a swingy tank top by Opening Ceremony. Oh, and a silk blazer from J.Crew. The discounts were deep: 66% off at J.Crew, 70% off Michael Kors at The Outnet, 61% off Vena Cava at Barneys.

Leah scooped up a body-con Vena Cava dress marked down by 30%, a beautiful J.Crew cashmere sweater and a pair of ballet flats, an Alex Wang tee, a 66% discount on Madison Harding lace-up wedges, and a gorgeous, sparkly Loeffler Randall blouse at 70% off the original price.

We had both used Shop It To Me in the past, but this time around, we really got to experience the breadth of their knowledge and vendors. The site narrows down your search by size and brand so that you don’t have to sift through hundreds of items you don’t want. And that made our search for the right items a whole lot easier.

And to celebrate fashion week, Shop It To Me has created an area of the site where members can see all of the New York designers in one place.

The nicest part of it all? There are over 700 designer brands to pick from, and over 100 participating retailers–including Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Saks, Net-a-Porter–so you know you’re shopping the best of the best. Seriously, sign-up. It’s worth it.



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Pre-Fashion Week Mad-Libs: Sachin + Babi for Ankasa

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 03:00 PM PDT

Today’s mad libs come from husband and wife design team Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia. Babi is all about wearing heels and getting down to business in the showroom, but knows when to chill out and be a mom.



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YSL’s New Manifesto Hits New York on September 14

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 02:30 PM PDT

Get excited: YSL’s Fall/Winter 2010-2011 Manifesto is about to launch right here in New York. The publication, along with a Stefano Pilati-designed tote, will be distributed on city streets this coming Tuesday, September 14. It’ll be passed around the rest of the world–meaning Paris, London, Milan, Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Beirut–on Saturday, September 18.

The 7th edition of the coveted pamphlet was photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, with campaign model Daria Werbowy starring. While over half a million copies will be distributed, only the first 2,000 people to be handed a manfesto will receive the custom zippered wristlet Pilati designed to accompany the initiative.

Listen, I still carry around my Christy Turlington bag circa Fall/Winter 2009-2010, so this is sure to be another collector’s item.

Related:

You Wanted to Poke Pilati
YSL To Take Over the World



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Sally’s Styling Seminary: Setting up a Styling Business

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 02:00 PM PDT

This week I'm writing about something you might think is boring, but, like a workout regimen, it's a necessary evil: Setting up a stylist's business.

I am a total geek and love working on the business side of my styling practice, but I know most stylists want to be creative and not even think about the biz operations. At the end of the day, being a successful stylist means being the CEO of your own company. Several of the best stylists I have met are incredibly business savvy.

New stylists or assistants working freelance must research the role of CEO. Hello 1099s. You are self-employed, so find out if registering as a company with an LLC can help with your taxes. CEOs of small businesses function differently than those of large corporations, but you must understand the responsibilities. So I did homework to understand the responsibilities of a CEO. Once a CEO/stylist designs a vision for the company, the stylist uses that vision to come up with strategies to achieve it. (For example, what magazines should you work with? Or how much can you raise your rate per year?) CEOs are responsible for designing a "vision" for their business and for choosing a competent and trustworthy team of experts to advise them in business-related matters. The team of experts a CEO/stylist hires is extremely important to the stylist's success. As soon as you can, I recommend hiring a lawyer, CPA, bookkeeper and agent.

Lawyers are expensive but worth it. A lawyer can save a stylist thousands of dollars and keep he/she on track to make career choices that mesh with his/her company's vision. A great lawyer becomes an important adviser to call upon when new clients and contracts appear. (Being realistic, I wasn't able to afford my amazing lawyer until last year, and my career is six years in the making.) Before I hired my lawyer, I worked with companies, like legalzoom.com, to get documents drafted and to get advice on handling new client contracts. (Stylist agents can also help with legal advice, but be careful, he/she might have a hidden agenda.) A great lawyer can also help a stylist build a team of business experts. My lawyer has recommended me to brilliant professionals who work with me on my taxes, financials and savings.

Stylists will also need the help of experts in the worlds of accounting and finance. My CPA and bookkeeper show me where I am making financial mistakes ("I spent how much on that magazine shoot? OF MY OWN MONEY?!"), and where and how I can save money. Bookkeepers are genius because they teach me how to predict my future income so I can figure out how to save and invest for future projects. When I was hiring my CPA and bookkeeper, I got solid references from other companies. I needed to trust the CPA and bookkeeper completely; complete transparency is key when working with these roles.

And finally, in terms of experts, we come to the styling agent. A stylist's agent just might be the most important person to have on a stylist's side. I love my agent. One moment he's a strategist, thinking about my long-term goals; the next he is playing hardball with our clients and confirming contracts. Sometimes he just babysits me via phone when I'm abroad and totally bored. But it took five years to find him! I had to meet with a lot of people. I had to pound the pavement for months with tear sheets from my first shoots in tow.

When I started looking for an agent and agency, I had five specific concerns:

1. That the agency and agent represented stylists and other artists I respected and liked. Being part of a roster at an agency is like being part of a big umbrella company, and it can make or break a stylist's identity.

2. That my agent had worked with stylists who had careers similar to the one I wanted for myself. I knew if my agent had never booked another stylist $250k worth of work in one year, the agent was never going to be able to do it for me. I was careful to choose an agent who had the capacity and "track record" to think and act with me in a way that would meet my creative and monetary goals.

3. That my agent could talk about money! I initially worked with an agent who hated to talk about it. How could he negotiate a major contract with one of my clients if he couldn't even remember (or write down somewhere?!) my wardrobe budget? A good agent has no problems dealing with money, speaking about it or negotiating for it!

4. That my agent understood my "vision" and aesthetic. I was and am styling for a certain type of man or woman, and I need to make sure my agent supports my vision.

5. That my agent was OCD in terms of organization! Stylists have so many jobs and working parts, and the agent has to keep it all together. If my agent isn't organized, I'm a mess.

There is so much more to learn about running a business, and I highly recommend to everyone, especially stylists, to learn, learn, learn! Read business books and get as much expert help and advice as you can. I started my business six years ago, and I still feel like I haven't even begun to have it all down. But it's always a good time to get out there, get started and never stop learning!

Related:

Sally’s Styling Seminary: A Stylist’s Secret Weapon
Sally’s Styling Seminary: The Lineage of Styling
Sally's Styling Seminary: A Stylist's Most Important Tool? Her Database



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How’d You Get So Far? Gayle Dizon’s Honest Answer to Succeeding in Fashion

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 01:30 PM PDT

If you’ve been to a big show at New York Fashion Week, you know Gayle Dizon’s work. She’s the powerhouse behind Dizon, Inc., a 10-year-old event production company that organizes shows for the likes of Proenza Schouler, ADAM, and Thakoon. She also happens to be one of the nicest people I’ve ever met in the industry. People that work with her/have worked with her have nothing but good things to say–and that’s a true test of success.

Gayle was gracious enough to answer our standard questions on how to succeed in fashion. We hope you learn something–we sure did!

How did you get started?

I came to NY right after college with the intention of working in fashion. Having gone through the summer intensive fashion design program at Parsons during college, I thought that I wanted to pursue design. Two days after arriving in NY I got lucky with my first interview, at Calvin Klein, and was offered a job there. I have Lynn Tesoro to thank for that! She interviewed me and that night I got a call to start on Monday. I was very hungry to learn and absorb everything I could. I quickly moved from answering phones, into PR, then into production of the shows, presentations, photo shoots, and the other special events. The close collaboration with the design team satisfied my interest in fashion design. I learned different ways to approach exhibiting and highlighting the clothes by working with all of the elements that excited me–styling, music, lighting, hair, make-up, casting. Calvin, especially during those years, was a great place to learn the entire business. I had the fortune of being able to work with phenomenal talents like Zack Carr, Narciso Rodriguez, Jessica Weinstein, Joe McKenna, Lori Goldstein, Melanie Ward–the list goes on. It was the most inspiring and creative group of people you could imagine. And learning the intricacies of the industry with the Calvin team and through the perspective of a fashion house that has such a clear and cohesive vision was amazing. That immersion in a world that is so focused in brand identity still helps to inform how I approach the projects I work on now.

Name one quality that contributed to your success.

I think a constant need to learn something new has been the key. I’m very inquisitive and am inspired by new experiences and concepts. I find that it’s often the least obvious detail or fragment of a new piece of art or movie that resonates and works its way into what we do, so I really try to absorb as much of what is happening in art, music, film as possible. This job requires constant research in all of those disciplines and really, in all things cultural. It’s really great when I can use some odd reference like the puff of liquid nitrogen in molecular gastronomy to inspire a lighting moment.

What is the best piece of advice you would give to an aspiring runway/event producer trying to make it in the industry?
Assist! It is vital to have experience working in the different facets of the industry in order to understand the big picture. The runways are where everything comes together. Study all of the talent–stylists, hair, make-up, set and lighting designers–understand how clothes work and move, get familiar with fabric, know who the models are and the story that a casting can communicate about a collection or a brand, and most of all, learn how to organize all the information!

Related:
How'd You Get So Far? Five Honest Answers to Succeeding in Fashion



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Street Style: Justice is on Dali Time

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 01:00 PM PDT

Name: Justice

Age:
23

Occupation:
Musician

What kind of music do you play? Electronic, psychedelic

What are the most prominent colors in your wardrobe? Black and gold

What is your current favorite song? “The Six Train” by Pink Stallone

What is your favorite dessert? Anything vegan.

If you were to get a tattoo right now, what would it be? An eye inside of a triangle.

Where is your top from? It's from H&M and I cut off the sleeve.

Where are your pants from? Trash & Vaudeville

And your watch?
It's from the Dali Museum and whenever anyone asks me the time I say it’s Dali time.

**All photos by Ashley Jahncke.

justice-portrait justice-watch justice



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10 Questions for The Rachel Zoe Project

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 12:00 PM PDT

1. Hey Brad, Rodger, can I have the rest of your pasta?

2. How do you communicate with Italian designers when you can’t speak Italian? Kiss, kiss. Breathless utterance about how ah-mazing the collection was. Ciao ciao. Beyond.

3. Could we see more fashion porn in every episode please? Loved the footage of the Milan shows.

4. When can Johnny Weir join the cast? I want to see him do excited claps every episode.

5. Did Brad and Johnny Weir just have a model stomp-off? How come they can walk in heels that high and I can’t?

6. Rachel can have Versace dresses made to order for the Oscars? That is impressive.

7. So Rachel carries and gives birth to dresses instead of babies? Does that mean the “Is Rachel going to have a baby?” plot line will end? Nope.

8. Did anyone else think Rodger’s bitch fit was well-deserved? The “continuous cycle of dresses and drama and stress” and Joey sticking his tongue out at me over breakfast at my own kitchen table would make me super bitchy too.

9. Which stylist beat Rachel out for that Marchesa gown that ended up Sandra Bullock?

10. Not a question, just a thank you. Thank you Brad, for the awesome 90210 reference. And thank you Johnny Weir for getting it, and saying “What kind of man would I be if i hadn’t seen that episode?” Gros bisous.



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Madeline Weinrib Atelier Needs Home Design Interns!

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 11:35 AM PDT

This internship may be more for those of you whose interest in fashion extends beyond the runway and into the home. Madeline Weinrib Atelier, a rapidly growing high-end carpet, textile and home accessories design company is looking for Fall interns for Press, their Design Studio and their Atelier Showroom, all based in New York. Applicants must be able to get school credit for this internship, no exceptions. This is an unpaid internship; however a $15 daily stipend is provided.

Requirements for Design Studio Internship:

- Administrative skills
- Detail oriented, patient, ability to multi task, and well organized
- Interest in fine arts, textiles, and/or home fashion industry
- Assembling & shipping samples
- Organizing Inventory
- Atelier/Showroom Internship Details and Requirements: ABChome location
- Administrative skills assisting in project management
- Detail oriented, patient, ability to multi task, and well organized
- Interest in fine arts, textiles, and/or home fashion industry
- Assembling & shipping samples and orders
- Organizing and upating Inventory and office supplies

Requirements For Public Relation and Event Internship

- Media outreach and traffic samples
- Press tracking and organization of media clippings.
- Maintain client database; updating and building media lists to mail outs.
- Conduct research for various projects
- Assist with event production
- Administrative duties, general showroom assistance

The ideal candidate should have:
- Excellent written and verbal communication skills
- An enthusiastic attitude, be hard working, reliable and organized
- Be an innovative self-starter that can work alone or in a team
- The ability to multi-task and prioritize assignments
- A strong understanding of all social media platforms
- Computer skills: Microsoft Office, Cision or Vocus, Photoshop (a plus, but not required)
- An interest in the home industry, fine arts or fashion
- The ability to commit at least 10-15 hours per week until the end of December

If this sounds like a good fit, email Karolina Zdanowska at kzdanowska@abchome.com.



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Last Night’s Parties: Jessica Simpson Stomps, Kate Spade Twirls

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 11:00 AM PDT

Before and after Fashion’s Night Out: The Show, I made my way to the night’s two biggest events: The launch of Jessica Simpson’s denim collection and the Kate Spade/Elizabeth Arden-hosted dinner to celebrate the launch of the brand’s new fragrance, Twirl.

Simpson’s soiree was a lively party in her apparel label’s showroom, DJed by brother-in-law Pete Wentz and featuring Simpson and friends show off the jeans, as well as some Spring 2011 offerings. The snacks were good–mini everything, from grilled cheese to hamburgers to BLTs–and the atmosphere was bright and buzzy. Simpson’s friends, including CaCee Cobb (who we’re particularly fond of because she’s married to Donald Faison, aka Murray from Clueless) scooted around the room in their new clothes. In reality, there were few actually examining at the wares–most onlookers seemed to want to get a good view of Simpson’s bod rather than her jeans. But I’ll say that there were some lovely shoes in the mix–particularly a pair of brown heeled hiking boots. Simpson’s shoe collection–when she’s not knocking off other labels–is really great. There–I’m admitting it!

I soon moved on to FNO: The Show, which you can read about here. Then it was time to head down to Tribeca, where the Kate Spade gals were clinking champagne at the Smyth Hotel's Plein Sud in honor of Twirl, a new fragrance produced in conjunction with Elizabeth Arden. The tables were lined with tiny vintage vases, filled with red roses, pink peonies, and other lovely blooms. The room was set up to mimic the scene in the campaign, which Britt got to see the making of last spring. There were plenty of bright young things around to toast, including the gorgeous Jessica Szohr, Lonneke Engel, and Alexis Bledel. It was an evening filled with beautiful vintage-inspired jewelry, 1950s and ’60s-style party frocks, and a very, very good steak au poivre.

Along the way I fell in love with the dress worn by the lead singer of Lapis Luna, the jazz band that entertained us over the course of the evening. It turns out it’s the dress that Lonneke Engel is wearing in the campaign, and they produced it specifically in honor of the new fragrance–there will only be a few available. With a pleated gold lame skirt and gold sequin top, it’s the perfect holiday frock.

As much as I was enjoying my time with the Twirl crowd, it was time to head home. Must rest up for what’s to come!

Related:
Behind the Scenes on Kate Spade's Twirl Shoot
Jessica Simpson Will Host a Spring 2011 Presentation at Her Showroom Right Before Fashion Week



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Fashion News Roundup: Carey’s Charming Vogue Cover, Tavi’s Styling Gig and More

Posted: 08 Sep 2010 10:30 AM PDT

Carey Mulligan Covers October Vogue We were right again. We were pretty excited about this and it’s definitely our favorite Vogue cover in a while; maybe just because we love Carey so much and that Chanel couture number is refreshingly edgy for the American glossy. The shoot was styled by Grace Coddington and shot by Peter Lindbergh. {Catwalk Queen}

The “New” Chanel Iman: Chanel Iman, who at 19 years old is well on her way to becoming a household name, is ready to change and evolve. With fashion week imminent, the runway fixture and Victoria’s Secret model has just signed with IMG after seven months with Supreme. “It’s the celebration of a new me,” she says. {Daily Front Row}

Tavi Styles at Fashion Week: Tavi continues to be unstoppable. Part of Alice & Olivia’s presentation will be styled by the 14 year old blogger. Designer Stacey Bendet calls her “one of the most original people in fashion right now.” {Elle.com}

The Row Gets Futuristic:
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen (or their marketing and sales teams) are bringing online shopping to a new level with the launch of The Row’s super tech-savvy e-commerce site. The site will include shoppable video technology, meaning it will feature videos of looks going down a runway that shoppers can click on and buy while the model is in motion. {Style.com}



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