It’s Official: Nicola Formichetti is in at Thierry Mugler” y 11 mas |
- It’s Official: Nicola Formichetti is in at Thierry Mugler
- Lady Gaga Gets A Fragrance, Finally
- Jason Wu: The Mrs. O Effect
- Juan Carlos Obando: Another Name to Watch
- Alexander Wang’s Return to Normalcy?
- At ADAM, P is Most Definitely For Pretty
- Paging Rayanne Graff: Charlotte Ronson Hearts the ’90s
- Prabal Gurung’s Strongest Showing Yet
- Patrik Ervell is Very Clean
- Breaking: The Olsens Cancel The Row Runway Show, Will Show in Paris Instead
- Long Nguyen’s Inteview With John Varvatos and Scenes From Last Night’s 10th Anniversary Celebration
- Christian Cota’s Yucatan Jungle
| It’s Official: Nicola Formichetti is in at Thierry Mugler Posted: 13 Sep 2010 06:36 AM PDT
Formichetti will have two head designers directly under him: Sébastien Peigné for womenswear, and Romain Kremer for menswear. Peigné has spent the last ten years working with Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, and Hyères-winner Kremer designs an eponymous collection. The group is quite young and innovative–Formichetti is just 33, Peigné is 30, and Kremer is 28–so it’ll be interesting to see whether or not they turn the house upside down. Regardless, they’re sure to stay true to Mugler’s original vision. Formichetti is obviously a huge fan–he’s used Mugler’s costumes in a Gaga video or two.
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| Lady Gaga Gets A Fragrance, Finally Posted: 12 Sep 2010 09:34 PM PDT
Lady Gaga, in a deal that was completed last week, has finally signed a long-term licensing agreement with Coty to create fragrances under her name. The first one will launch in Spring 2012. Good gravy. What will this smell like? I actually hope it smells weird and funky. And the bottles better be spectacular. I often forget to wear a scent (and I have quite a collection), but I love how they look all lined up on the counter. What do you think the top notes will be? Hairspray? Rubber? In other Gaga news, at first I thought her outfits at the VMAs last night were more fashiony and less costumey than usual. The avocado, gold, and brick red McQueen gown was gorgeous and downright sedate, for her at least. I liked the Scarlett O'Hara huge leather ball gown, too. Then she rocked the meat dress. Enough said. How do you bottle her brand of eccentricity? This will be interesting to watch.
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| Posted: 12 Sep 2010 03:00 PM PDT
Wu’s vibrant color palette was inspired by the energy of Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes’ work. Delicate silk and chiffon blouses were paired with pin tucked trousers and cascade front skirts. The last ten or so looks were quintessential Wu–beautiful red carpet ready gowns, the skirts covered in fluttery petals. It’s a collection made to please–buyers, glossy editors and celeb stylists–Wu’s keeping everyone happy.        
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| Juan Carlos Obando: Another Name to Watch Posted: 12 Sep 2010 02:27 PM PDT
Obando, who is based in Los Angeles, sent out thick silk fabric that was almost plush in its design–kind of like a very, very thin puffy coat. And with prints that reminded me of outer space. (The Swarovski element was present in the black rhinestone beading purposefully sprinkled on the back of a few dresses–it was highly effective.) While the prints were futuristic, the silhouettes were pure vintage. Plenty of peplums and tulip skirts–my favorites. Obando’s been seeing buyers at the Swarovski showroom over the course of the week. We’re betting his pieces will be stocked in even more retailers come next spring.         
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| Alexander Wang’s Return to Normalcy? Posted: 12 Sep 2010 02:00 PM PDT
Maybe it was the negative press garnered from his last collection, or simply the desire to move away from trend-heavy pieces. But this season’s Alexander Wang show was entirely new, yet not totally fresh. The first half of the show was all white–I tweeted that I was sure “clean slate” would pop up in nearly every review written about the collection. But it really did seem like some sort of rebirth–Wang even painted his models hair and eyebrows with streaks of white. When he did move onto color, it was muted–a sea foam green, a dusty terra cotta, a buttercup yellow–nothing shocking or subversive. Just present. I particularly liked an oversized trench with with what looked like one half of a pair of suspenders attached to the back. There were plenty of things I would wear, and plenty of things I might actually buy. But was it an out-in-out success? Save for the always stellar soundtrack, the collection lacked the energy you usually feel come through at a Wang show. I think last season was about experimentation, and this season was about getting back to basics. So expect Wang to wow, yet again, for Fall 2011.      
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| At ADAM, P is Most Definitely For Pretty Posted: 12 Sep 2010 01:30 PM PDT
But while Lippes' own adam+eve line emerged in 2004 as a bank of basics, since then, not only has the name changed, but so too has its aesthetic. In the past couple seasons, ADAM has gone back to pretty. Like, really pretty. Perhaps it's just another case of this season's sartorial shift from grandeur and drama back towards minimalism and femininity. But whatever the cause for the slant towards sophistication, one thing's for sure: Lippes is more than well trained for it. At Saturday's show, ADAM's spring sundresses (in white eyelets and gauzy chiffons) fishtailed ever so slightly, subtly adding intrigue to the silhouette by tipping the hemline on an axis. Another standout was an eggshell shift with turquoise, coral, and peach stones sprinkled around the collar and drizzled ever so gently down the dress. Both looks were feminine– but not overly precious. Remarkably, Lippes even managed to make a red leather dress look refined by pairing its demure square cut neckline with a full, flouncy skirt. Lippes may have started his line with basics in mind, but if he can do pretty in such a palatable way, perhaps he should stay there. **All photos by Julia Silverman.        
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| Paging Rayanne Graff: Charlotte Ronson Hearts the ’90s Posted: 12 Sep 2010 01:03 PM PDT
Lindsey Wixson opened the show and set the tone in a sheer orange spaghetti strap dress, slouchy knit beanie hat, thin braids towards the front of her straight, parted-down-the-middle hair, and a nose ring. Hoodies were draped in an “I don’t give a fuck” kind of way over models heads. There were long floral print dresses over short-sleeved white tees, cinched at the waist with, duh, a tied flannel shirt. I could hear Cher’s voice in my head, “So, this flannel thing. Is that a nod to the crispy Seattle weather, or are you just trying to stay warm in front of the refrigerator?” The grunge inspiration continued with a series of army green cargo looks but that’s not to say the collection didn’t have some more girly feminine pieces. There was plenty of sheer in the way of delicate tiered sheer tops in bright yellows and mid-calf length skirts worn with nothing but underwear underneath. Not quite sure how that look will translate from the runway to the street. Also hoping the espadrille flats paired with thick wool socks look is one that won’t make it past the runway either. But the long floral and striped knit skirts certainly will. All in all, a super fun show. Thanks for the memories Ronson sisters! **All photos by Julia Silverman.      
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| Prabal Gurung’s Strongest Showing Yet Posted: 12 Sep 2010 01:00 PM PDT
Yesterday’s show at Lincoln center was proof. Not only did he build on his reputation for expertly draped and tailored evening dresses–he also gave us something different: distinctive day wear. I was afforded the opportunity to sit in Row 1, Section A with Gurung-supporter/sponsor Nadja Swarovski. I’ll be shadowing Swarovski for a bunch of sponsored shows at London Fashion Week, as well as a show in Paris. (I’m traveling with the company as a blogging ambassador of sorts.) It was undoubtedly the best seat I’ve ever had, and I was truly appreciative. Not only did I get a great view of the clothes, but also the INSANELY AMAZING shoes designed by Nicholas Kirkwood. If you thought sky-high heels were on their way out, you’re wrong: Kirkwood’s collection for Prabal was strappy and nearly-dominatrix in its styling, save for the soft nude, gold and neons used on the straps, leather and platforms. Nicholas sat across from us, paying close attention to how the girls walked. But back to the clothes:
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| Posted: 12 Sep 2010 12:30 PM PDT
The Swedish Ervell, who had a stint running V magazine, has turned restraint into a level of zen with this collection, and that's not a dis—he's managed to hold back without becoming staid, or boring. He's taken minimalism towards its most endearing end here, making geek chic so sexy and cool we almost have to remove the "geek." He's completely bucked his fellow designers' trends towards workwear, and instead presented a collection that celebrates refinement, urbanity, and the nattier side of youth. Not a chambray in sight. Ervell had his boys walking on stacks of Financial Times newspapers, and though the designer denies it, perhaps a playful jibe at the changing face of media, or the economic trends, or perhaps at the press as a whole. Or all of the above. Regardless, it left us all chuckling. But the set up had applications beyond the metaphorical; the FT's pink pages served as a perfect contrast to Ervell's barely turquoise, white, and khaki chinos, rolled at the cuff. Tucked into these are modern shirts with rounded collars, buttoned high. And on top of these are crisp, cool, two-button jackets whose wearer may have a thing or two to learn about the ways of the world, but you're taking him home anyway.      
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| Breaking: The Olsens Cancel The Row Runway Show, Will Show in Paris Instead Posted: 12 Sep 2010 12:00 PM PDT
“They’re changing directions,” says the source. This would have been the second showing at New York Fashion Week for the label. Whether this means the designers will be doing market appointments with buyers and editors is unknown, but one has to wonder whether this has to do with funding. While the collection is beloved by editors and stylists, including us, the prices are out of control. No t-shirt, I don’t care who makes it and what it’s made from, should cost $500. That’s probably why there was a ton of The Row product at the Barneys Warehouse Sale. We know that the label laid quite a few people off in early 2009–maybe they’re still struggling to gain momentum post-recession. But despite the fact that we think some of their prices are crazy, we’re still kind of bummed that they’re not showing. Last season’s collection was stellar. We’ll keep you updated if we hear more.
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| Long Nguyen’s Inteview With John Varvatos and Scenes From Last Night’s 10th Anniversary Celebration Posted: 12 Sep 2010 11:28 AM PDT
Just a few minutes past midnight last night Alice Cooper took the stage and performed his perennial hit “School's Out,” released in 1972. This was just moments after ZZ Top sang “Foxy Lady.” Darling Stilettos did the CBGB Ramones classics “Blitzkrieg Pop,” and Donovan Leitch–with Camp Freddy and Perry Farrell–closed the show with the Jane Addiction classic “The Mountain Song.” And that's only a partial line up of the rockers that came out to perform in celebration of the launch of Original Moonshine and the tenth anniversary of John Varvatos' menswear collection at the former CBGB space on Bowery, now Varvatos’ store selling his main, USA and Converse collections. Rock & Roll, whiskey and fashion. Designer fashion requires a narrative–a way of telling a story or relating a lifestyle that the clothes are mere accoutrements. For Mr. Varvatos, it's his early affection for rock music that has provided the blood that has flowed through his work since launching his first collection for fall 2000. In his office it's hard to locate a book on fashion, but the piles on his long coffee table include The Illustrated Biography of Bob Dylan, Rock Record 7, CBGB: Decade of Graffiti History and Punk, Made in the U.K – The Music Attitude 1977-1983, Who Shot Rock & Roll, and Ryan Adams and the Cardinals: A View of Other Windows. And off course a tome on The Doors, just to name a few. In reconnecting with his adolescent obsession with rock music Mr. Varvatos gives the brand a soul, or what we call “fashion.” "I grew up listening to rock music," John told me as I visited him one afternoon to talk about, well, his fashion work. On the walls are two large framed triple gold records that Alice Cooper and Led Zeppelin given to him as gratitude for his collaboration. Right next to his desk is more rock memorabilia–a large blue electric guitar from Velvet Revolver. Looking at the books in front of me at his office , and the memorabilia that surrounded me, I realized that through fashion, Mr. Varvatos has finally been able to find the way to express his love and genuine devotion to rock music. "I bought my first leather biker [jacket] in 11th grade," he said recalling the days of his youth driving to rock concerts, dressing up just like those rock musicians he went to see. Now, he casts both young talents and venerable rock musicians in his advertising campaigns–Franz Ferdinand, Alice Cooper, Perry Farrell, Cheap Trick, Velvet Revolver, Ryan Adams and even ZZ Top. And he nurtures new bands with the monthly concert series at the Bowery store, the former CBGB performance space. Born and raised in the suburb of Detroit, Michigan, a city with a long history of music legends, John Varvatos worked at different odds and ends jobs in fashion as sales clerks to support himself through Eastern Michigan University and the University of Michigan, earning a degree in education. With a friend, he co-owned a store in Grand Rapids selling Polo Ralph Lauren. Having great success with Polo, he eventually joined Ralph Lauren in 1983 first as a Midwest sales representative, then was transferred to New York where he worked in merchandising. Eventually, he moved to the design department. In 1990, he went to Calvin Klein as head of menswear, working on the main collection and launching the CK brand. He returned to Ralph Lauren in 1995 as head of menswear design for Polo and launched the separate Polo Jeans Company. With the financial backing of the Nautica Company, which he joined in 1998 to head up special projects and the Nautica Jeans launch, he started his own brand in late 1999 and showed the first collection on the runway during New York Fashion Week in 2000. Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys bought the collection. Later that year, the company opened its flagship store in SoHo, the first of nine stores operating today. Today, Mr, Varvatos owned 20% of the company after VF Corporation purchased Nautica in 2003. A first collection is rarely a definite statement of the designer's ethos, but Mr. Varvatos's debut collection runway show was a sure indication of his own particular approach to fashion, or more precisely to shaping American fashion. That fall collection–a loosely fitted charcoal single-breasted suit, a cotton belted parka, a belted wool poncho, double-breasted coats and fine knitwear all worn with flat front pants with flare legs–combined high quality fabrics like cashmere, flannel wool, wool twill, wool melton, and vintage wool herringbone. The pristine manufacturing gave the designer a foundation for a business. In lieu of making some trendy fashion statements that most designers clamored around, the collection presented choices, concrete choices with the base on a loose silhouette that a customer can pick and choose to mix with their existing wardrobe. That's a harder road to take in fashion, where the commercial is often shunned, basically an afterthought to spectacular runway shows. Yet Mr. Varvatos persisted with his vision, and over the course of several seasons gained a voice because his singular approach to menswear. At a time when a tight fit and black clothes ruled the runway, he proposed wide legged, loose suits in white, ice blue and light grey in a collection for spring 2003, and a large lapel on a slouchy suits for fall 2005. More importantly, these collections were a base for a building solid business: Today, the label generates over $125 million in yearly sales. In September 2001, Mr. Varvatos initiated a partnership with Converse, a shoe company that had never worked with designers, to design limited edition Chuck Taylor All-Stars and Jack Purcell sneakers. It became the most successful collaboration for Converse and continued with the best selling lace-less Chuck Taylor in January 2004 and the launch of a full range collection of apparel for Converse in March 2006. To complete his range of products, he added the USA Collection of vintage denim and woven in 2006. Along the way, he picked up three CFDA menswear designers of the year awards and cemented his fashion credentials. But of all the success, he is most proud of his Bowery store project.
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| Christian Cota’s Yucatan Jungle Posted: 12 Sep 2010 11:20 AM PDT
The show opened to the sounds of a bird cawing and feathers flapping, fitting as feathers in pale pastels showed up in Cota’s hand painted prints. Cota, a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, sent down a mix of structured, tailored separates–crisp white shorts paired with silk cropped or trapeze tops with sheer inserts–and soft tiered gowns, appropriately fluttery given the avian inspiration. Stand out looks include a blush dress that was essentially a backwards blazer with a plunging back, and a short evening gown with a draped train for added drama. Related:                                    
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It’s been a rumor for over three months, and now it’s confirmed: Superstar stylist Nicola Formichetti is now the creative director at French fashion house Thierry Mugler, which is owned by Clarins. His first collection will be for Fall 2011. 
While everyone was out at parties last night, I was sitting on my couch scrolling through Twitter and watching the VMAs–appropriately, I suppose–when WWD tweeted this late-breaking news flash.
Michelle Obama made Jason Wu a household name, and we could see her in just about every hot pink and lime and bow-embellished piece Wu sent down the runway for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection (save the sheer chiffon blouses–not very FLOTUS like).
Juan Carlos Obando, sponsored by Swarovski this season, was one of the few designers to tackle the futuristic for Spring 2011. A collection that belongs in both the pages of Vogue as much as it does in the pages of V, it was Mad Men-meets-Martians, if you will. And I liked it. 
Last season, I didn’t love 
Holy ’90s flashback. 
Prabal Gurung is a fashion darling, but he’s also got the chops to back up his buzz. 
One of the sharpest collections I've seen this year belongs to Patrik Ervell, who could be called Mr. Clean if we named him by the look of his clothes. Clean cuts, polished looks, razor sharp silhouettes—the collection would have the feel of trains running on time, if it weren't so darn beautiful for that fascist allusion.
Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of 
Christian Cota says he drew 
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