An Ode to Charlotte Olympia” y 7 mas

An Ode to Charlotte Olympia
Henry Holland Grows Up Just Enough
Topshop Unique Spring 2011: White Winged Doves
Gallery: Emilio de le Morena Spring 2011
Oscar de la Renta’s Posh Garden Party
Newsflash: The Fashion Industry Contributes £37 Billion to the UK Economy Each Year
Best Dressed: The Rest of NYFW
Enter the World of Hussein Chalayan

Posted: 19 Sep 2010 05:47 AM PDT

LONDON–Britt had raved about socialite Charlotte Dellal’s shoe collection Charlotte Olympia, and I had read a few profiles on her in UK glossies, but now that I’ve seen several pairs of Dellal’s shoes close up–at Emilio de la Morena, Henry Holland, and on the designer herself–I’m smitten.

As a sensible shoe person–I own very few pairs of crazy heels, and I wear them sparingly–it’s difficult for me to understand how people can physically bear to walk in many of them. While I appreciate the art of cobbling, particularly Nicholas Kirkwood’s work, I know that even if I could afford those Kirkwood for Rodarte shoes, I would have to put them on display like a sculpture, as I know I would never be able to walk in them, even for a second.

But there’s something about Della’s shoes, something almost accessible–maybe the sky-high platforms?–that makes me think I could pull them off. Yesterday, the designer was wearing a pair of black platforms with a leopard stripe on the platform part of the shoe, and I was convinced I could handle them. At Emilio de la Morena, she designed sky-high suede platform heels with enough straps to support the weakest ankle, and in a rainbow of colors that I’m coveting for spring: seafood green, yellow. At House of Holland, the shoes were metallic and strappy, but again with a sturdy platform.

I might be wedded to kitten heels and flats, but Dellal’s delicious designs are tempting enough for me to step out (pun intended) on my more sensible footwear. If only more US stores would stock her. At least Net-a-Porter knows what’s up.

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Henry Holland Grows Up Just Enough

Posted: 19 Sep 2010 05:22 AM PDT

When House of Holland first debuted at London Fashion Week in 2008, people loved it–but not because it was so revolutionary. Rather, because it was fun. Really fun. And Henry Holland and his friends–Aggy Deyn, Peaches Geldoff, Alexa Chung–made it quite fun because it was their party. From fluorescent purple plaids to zebra print anything, it was to be taken as a fun romp, not a rack of clothing that people would actually buy.

But something changed with Holland’s “Pantone” collection. Despite its innate unwearability, people loved it so much that they became obsessed with this particular idea of color-blocking and scooped up every pair of tights produced. Holland realized that tights were great place to make some real cash, and soon his fashion house because a real business.

This season, with the help of Swarovski–who is also sponsoring me on my trip to London, thank you very much–the House of Holland became a viable commercial player. But not to worry–there was still plenty of fun to be had.

The theme seemed to be ’70s starlet on holiday, with plenty of fringe, palm tree prints, and sparkly dresses. There was a pleated chambray skirt, a chain mail dress, and a halter frock encrusted with stars of Swarovski crystals. The bet parst, though, might have been the pom pom earrings, which nearly every girl wore. I don’t know how or where I’d wear them. But I need them. Now.

“Our girl’s growing up, and I guess I’m growing up,” Henry told me after the show. “There’s a little more sensibility in how she dresses. It’s also a more technically accomplished collection.” That was obvious in the fit and finish of the pieces. Sure, there were still some frayed ends, like on deep pink dress, but it was contrasted with perfectly ironed accordion pleats.

As for the pom pom earrings, which are a handmade combination of Swarovski crystals, wire, and feather boa? “I watched Zanadu on a plane, and it came to me,” laughed Henry. We laughed with him, because he’s lovely. And so are his clothes.

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Topshop Unique Spring 2011: White Winged Doves

Posted: 19 Sep 2010 04:14 AM PDT

LONDON–Steve Nicks’ Edge of Seventeen provided the arc in Topshop Unique‘s Spring 2011 runway soundtrack. And it was wholly appropriate. Styled by Katie Grand, the girls were ’70s all the way.

We loved the ‘fros, but our favorite pieces were the sheer, flowy pants, long suit jackets and a berry sweater and hot pants set that looked innocent in a sea of sex and rock ‘n roll.

The show took place in the old European terminal at Waterloo station, which provided plenty of natural light. (There were even Topshop workers driving editors, including yours truly, right up to the platform in golf carts.)

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Gallery: Emilio de le Morena Spring 2011

Posted: 18 Sep 2010 12:00 PM PDT

We gave you a first look at Emilio de le Morena‘s Spring 2011 collection. Here’s the rest.

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Oscar de la Renta’s Posh Garden Party

Posted: 18 Sep 2010 11:02 AM PDT

Oscar de la Renta S/S 2011 Cheat Sheet:

-a decadent garden party
-classic silhouettes
-silk faille
-evening gloves, hair bows, and kitten heels
-lime green, light pink, glamorous black
-playful appliques
-'50s feel; modern aesthetic

From a seat a few rows back from the catwalk it's apparent: Oscar de la Renta is a man apart. The designer offered a fashion week finale far from the rush of the Lincoln Center tent. The celebs that filled his front row were top-tier editors (with a single flashbulb celebrity exception in SJP) and the mood was relaxed.

The start: drums, Spanish guitar, hair in big buns and silk. Pantsuits in swinging silk, tightly belted, and day dresses were in wide, elegant plaid or floral patterns. But the night looks were the most striking. The luxury of seasons past remained, of course, with a playful infusion of color and textures (lime green, pink, red and yellow appliquéd carnations, lace and sequins). In all their complicated construction with silk chiffon ruffles, floral embroidery and organza volume, they seemed lighthearted and youthful, especially when set to the music of the ’50s.

The capstone dress, a green silk faille confection with delicate pink appliqués and a voluminous pink silk faille bolero, tied together the most lyrical part of the show. The look was a complete Oscar de le Renta finish with dramatic tension (felt in the hair), playful volume and serious femininity. De la Renta seems to think his most devoted uptown clients are ready for pieces imbued with a light-hearted, youthful flair. Ah yes, aren't we all?

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Newsflash: The Fashion Industry Contributes £37 Billion to the UK Economy Each Year

Posted: 18 Sep 2010 10:49 AM PDT

LONDON–Remember that teaser for The September Issue where the voice-over would say, “Fashion is $500 billion global industry…” or something like that? Well, it looks like the UK makes up about a tenth of that $500 billion.

At least according to a new study commissioned by the British Fashion Council. Fancy-sounding consultants Oxford Economics researched and wrote the report, which states that £37 billion is made–directly or indirectly–from fashion each year in Great Britain. That’s not too shabby, given the size of the country. In fact, fashion is the 15th largest industry (out of approximately 81) in the UK.

The results are a boon to those like designer Christopher Raeburn, who produces much, if not all, of his product here in the UK. Fashion’s importance to the economy reinforces his mission.

What this means for the British fashion industry as a whole, we’re not so sure. But it’s obvious–particularly from the temporary designer showrooms the organization has set up at Somerset house–that they’re serious about getting the clothes sold, not just seen.

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Best Dressed: The Rest of NYFW

Posted: 18 Sep 2010 10:22 AM PDT

Alexa Chung and musician Diane Birch stole the show at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Diane Kruger Looked amazing in Prabal Gurung, one of our favorite collections of the week. Rachel Bilson rocked Suno, one of our Fashionista 15. And Vogue cover girl Carey Mulligan looked lovely in Elie Saab in Toronto and can definitely hold her own amongst the fashion week crowd.

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Enter the World of Hussein Chalayan

Posted: 18 Sep 2010 08:00 AM PDT

LONDON–Possibly the only thing more death-defying than the leap from model to actress is the rarely attempted feat of fashion designer-turned-artist. But for two time “British Designer of the Year” and creative director of PUMA, Hussein Chalayan, these acrobatics are child’s play.

The Cypriot-born, London-raised designer first came to fashion by way of architecture, not surprising for those familiar with the tremendous technical construction and futuristic materials he is best known for.

Think airplane wings, folding table, foam molded car crashes and yes, I am talking about dresses.

Chalayan’s firs solo art exhibit entitled “I am Sad Leyla” is currently showing at London’s Lisson Gallery through October 8. (Definitely stop by in if you’re in town for London Fashion Week.)

Central to the works is “I am Sad Leyla” a classical Arabic song about star-crossed lovers, performed by Turkish songstress Sertab Erener, known for her own two-step between opera and pop. Video of the stunning Chalayan-clad singer played in the basement while above, her melancholy voice filled one white-walled room while video of her visage was projected onto a life-size likeness of herself.

Pivoting once again around issues of cultural identity and displacement, the highly conceptual designer opened a tandem exhibition at London’s Spring Projects Sept. 17. As for the big leap? From the looks of the art crowd, seems Chalayan has landed safely on the other side.