miércoles, 18 de agosto de 2010

Ask Chris: Do I Need a Degree in Fashion to Work in Fashion?” y 9 mas

Ask Chris: Do I Need a Degree in Fashion to Work in Fashion?” y 9 mas


Ask Chris: Do I Need a Degree in Fashion to Work in Fashion?

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 03:23 PM PDT

Dear Chris Benz,
I am sure that every one in New York wants to be a stylist, designer, and everything else that revolves around fashion, and I know that the competition is steep in NY as for many other places. But I believe in my self enough to leave my hometown of Houston, TX, and move to New York in order to further myself in the fashion industry. My question for you Chris is if I want to be a stylist, designer, or even just have a paid position at a top fashion firm, do you believe that a degree is necessary? Or rather hard work and dedication? And if a degree is necessary my top interest for schooling is FIT, what degree would be best for some one who just wants to style beautiful people and further them selves in the fashion industry? I really must say RIP to my life in Houston TX, and birth a new life in NY, your words of advice will be greatly appreciated!
Love,
FashionsMuse

Dear Fashion Muse -

You sound like you are open to many different careers in the fashion industry, which is terrific. Open-mindedness and believing in yourself are both key attributes to have, particularly when you are looking to make such a big leap!

There are so, so many different, unusual and specific paths you could take in fashion, outside of the more well-known positions (stylist, designer, editor), each as individual and integral to the industry as you could imagine. There are fashion show producers, lighting designers, publicists, production people, patternmakers, fabric agents, hairstylists, set designers, print designers, retail architects, merchandisers, buyers, the list is endless. Each and every one is as involved in the fashion business as a designer or stylist, and likewise all work intimately with designers and stylists regularly.

The beauty industry, fashion's glamorous sister, affords a whole other scintillating world of careers. I worship and adore the PR team at Lancôme, with whom I work with intimately to create beautiful, modern faces for our fashion shows. They very well could be the most glamorous women I know, and they indeed love and are involved with fashion as much as any designer or stylist.

It is very much about dedication and earnest work ethic, and as I said, open-mindedness. Working in any facet of the industry will expose a new and interesting perspective for your future.

xx
CB

Got a question for Chris? Email him on askchrisbenz@fashionista.com.



J.Crew Shoots The Rassle in Suits

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 02:49 PM PDT

The gentleman of The Rassle don’t typically wear suits.

“We’re a rock-and-roll band,” says drummer Erik Ratensperger. His lead singer, Blair Van Nort, chimes in, “I don’t think we’d ever actually wear suits on stage. Well, unless we were playing Radio City Music Hall or something.”

Despite being “jeans and t-shirt kind of guys,” this Brooklyn-based foursome–consisting of former members of the Virgins and Young Lords and the Takeover UK–seemed pretty comfortable in J.Crew’s classic suiting styles, the Aldrich and the Ludlow. I mean, they were wearing them in 85 degree heat and barely sweating. That’s got to say something, right?

The newish band, which you can check out on TheRassle.com, was shooting a quickie video for J.Crew’s e-commerce site today, and we got to hang out on the set. The video will launch the last week of September on JCrew.com:

The scene: The Liquor Store, J.Crew’s pristine menswear shop on West Broadway in Tribeca.* By the time I got there, the guys were shooting against a white screen on the streets, right in front of the store.

The reason: The video aims to show off J.Crew’s suiting collection–particularly the difference between its two standard suits–The Ludlow (slimmer fit) and the Aldridge (a more classic cut). “It’s hard for guys to really discern what the suit will look like unless they see it on a moving person,” reasons J.Crew’s head men’s stylist Jack O’Connor. It makes sense. The Ludlow is for slighter guys, while the Aldridge–while still modern–fits someone with a bulkier waist and upper body.

The results: The music was good, the clothes looked amazing. If the final clip is even a tenth of as compelling as that stop-motion video J.Crew released a month or two ago, we’ll be pleased.

*Guys, if you need some help shopping, visit Brett at The Liquor Store. He knows what’s up.



T By Alexander Wang: The Complete Fall Campaign

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 01:55 PM PDT

A few images of Zoe Kravitz and Max Motta for T by Alexander Wang surfaced last week, but we’ve got the full campaign. And we’re liking it. Click through to see the rest.



Finally! Coco Rocha Tweets Proper Wedding Photo

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 01:24 PM PDT

“I think I’ve left you all waiting long enough for this one,” Coco Rocha just tweeted, along with a photo of her and husband James from their June 9th wedding held in a castle in the Loire valley. She looks absolutely stunning in her custom Zac Posen wedding dress. That James Conran is one lucky dude.



What One Little Fashion Blogger Can Do: M·A·C Pulls Plug on M·A·C Rodarte Makeup Collection

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 12:44 PM PDT

M·A·C announced yesterday afternoon that they will not ship their M·A·C Rodarte Makeup Collection “out of Respect for women and girls of Juárez and their families.” The cosmetics company will uphold their commitment to donate all of their projected profits from the collection to benefit the women of Juarez, and added that they are conducting due diligence to ensure that the organizations that receive donations have “a proven record of directly supporting the women and girls of Juarez.”

The statement continues: “M·A·C and Rodarte are deeply and sincerely sorry and we apologize to everyone we offended. We have listened very closely to the feedback of concerned global citizens. We are doing our very best to right this wrong. The essence of M·A·C is to give back and care for the community and Rodarte is committed to using creativity for positive social change. We are grateful for the opportunity to use what we have learned to raise awareness on this important issue. ”

Of course, this big decision, which likely cost M·A·C a pretty penny (including dollars spent by M·A·C and Rodarte on damage control), can be traced back to a single blog post written on July 15th by Jessica Wakeman at the Frisky. “MAC/Rodarte Makeup Collaboration Names Nail Polish After Impoverished, Murdered Women,” read Wakeman’s headline.

The rest is viral fashion blog history. Many fashion blogs, including this one, picked up Wakeman’s story. When NY Mag’s the Cut pressed M·A·C for a statement, they responded with a pledge to donate a portion of the proceeds of the line to help women in Juarez. Then M·A·C issued yet another statement of apology on July 29th following their meeting with Mexican Government officials, including CONAVIM (Comisión Nacional Para Prevenir y Erradicar la Violencia Contra las Mujeres/National Commission to Prevent and Eradicate Violence Against Women). Now, just about a month after Wakeman’s post, and after apologizing many times and committing to help the women of Jaurez, the line is no more. Who ever said blogging can’t affect change?

No word yet on what M·A·C plans to do with the controversy-causing line but we’ve reached out to the company for comment and will report back when we have word.



Street Style: Sheila Hangs Out in Balenciaga and Chanel

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 11:55 AM PDT

Name: Sheila Marquez

Age: 25

Occupation: Model

What is your favorite dessert? Lavender Crème Brule

What is your current favorite song? “Starry Eyes Gone Blank Tonight” by Totem Pole

Where are you headed now?
Chelsea Market

Where is your top from?
Bess

Where is your necklace from?
Balenciaga

Where are your boots from? Chanel

**All photos by Ashley Jahncke.



Which Fashion Career Is Right For You?

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 10:20 AM PDT

Even if you've never done a sketch or sewn a button, you can have a career in fashion. Being a designer is obviously one of the most visible roles you can have in the industry, but talent and skill are required (don't tell that to all the reality starlets trying launching clothing lines).

It's a huge industry and there are a multitude of jobs available; you can find one to suit your temperament and talents. Here are a few suggestions and ideas for getting started (and keep in mind this is more of an overview than a comprehensive list):

Fashion Merchandising/Sales and Marketing: This is where design and business intersect. Designers ultimately need to get their product to the market. Merchandisers track and monitor fashion trends and consumer trends. A head for numbers and a ton of creativity are non-negotiable.

There are many options that fall under the "Merchandising" umbrella. Retail management is one. Lauren thinks this is an under-appreciated career path. You can make really decent money and get firsthand knowledge of a multitude of brands, marketing strategies, and how to manage people.

Buying is another route. This will require some years of experience on a retail floor and as a buyer's assistant. I have a friend who started out selling shoes at Nordstorm in college and is now a jewelry buyer for them. Find a niche you love and learn everything about it.

Have an artsy, creative mind? Advertising, either on the corporate or retail side, might be for you. Advertising, in this age of quick media consumption, is the juggernaut that never stops. You can work at a corporate level (think of all the different brands that Gap and Limited Inc. own) or the retail level. (How does Macy's move all those cosmetics?)

There are several fashion schools that offer Fashion Merchandising degrees–FIT in NYC is one–but a general business degree, retail experience, and carefully chosen internships can set you on the right path.

Production Management: This is front line of fashion. Production managers are responsible for getting textiles and clothing made at the manufacturing level. They work with suppliers and retailers to make sure a quality production.

This field has potential to be an exciting and challenging. This weekend the New York Times reported about a growing movement towards "zero waste" production, where very little material goes unused. It's a design as well as manufacturing challenge.

Everyone is interested in the magic formula of getting clothes produced cheaply but with a certain level of quality. The green movement is showing no signs of stopping, which adds another layer of challenge.

The decisions made at the production level can have long-reaching economic implications. The movement to keep these production in the US–like the grassroots efforts to sustain NYC's Garment Center–is huge now.

Some fashion schools offer Production Management as a degree option. The job requires some business training and you should have a fascination with how things are made.

Visual Presentation/Styling: These are two separate though potentially overlapping professions. As far as styling, I don't think I can articulate it any better than Sally Lyndley has just done. With the celebrity status of stylists like Rachel Zoe, it's definitely a profession that is on the rise in terms of visibility. A degree isn't totally necessary, but again, having some understanding of numbers, business, and communications is essential. And internships and networking are probably more important in styling than in the other professions.

Simon Doonan is, of course, the godfather (or fairy godmother) of visual presentation. Are you theatrical? Good with props? Creative? Welcome to your new career. Store windows are only one of many options for visual presentation. Museum exhibits, fashion shows, and showrooms all use this technique. The FIT degree description characterizes the profession perfectly: "They are storytellers in three dimensions, creating environments that inspire, inform, and persuade." There are specialty degrees at art and fashion schools specifically for visual presentation.

Public Relations: PR is the middle man between a product and a retailer or consumer. PR reps are in charge of keeping a brand's image squeaky clean and making sure people are talking about it. Their job is to make a brand seem appealing. A charming and friendly personality is an absolute must in this field. I adore most PR reps I've met because they seem absolutely and genuinely enthusiastic about their clients. It's infectious, which is exactly the reaction you want to elicit. A degree in communications, marketing, or business–along with the all-important internships–will get you there.

Fashion Journalist: Love to write and love fashion? The opportunities to report and weigh in on what's happening in the world of fashion have never been greater. Magazines are expanding their online presence and hiring bloggers to report up-to-the minute news. You can also write for e-commerce sites, PR firms, or trade publications.

But first and foremost you need to be a good writer. Consider a journalism or creative writing program, but at the very least take writing courses. I can tell you firsthand that the feedback you get from instructors is invaluable and can really up your game.

Write constantly. Blog for EVERYONE. Get clips however you can. Prove that you know the industry. You'll need research and interviewing skills and you'll need to network. Another thing I've learned is that the more "experts" you know in the industry, the easier your job of reporting will be.

Still unsure of which direction to take? Here are some easy things to do: Work in retail. Read industry publications–spring for a WWD subscription. Know the players in the industry. Read all the magazines and blogs. Shop! See what's in the stores. Notice how online retailers market and sell things. Maybe something will inspire you.

Now go get yourself a career.



Fashion News Roundup: Olivia Palermo Does Jewelry, Angelina Jolie Rumored To Be Designing Children’s Line, and Simon Doonan Trick or Treats For Target

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 09:42 AM PDT

Olivia’s Bibs: The controversial City star has designed a five-piece collection of bib necklaces for Roberta Freymann. Bib necklaces might be on their way out, but we have to admit these are pretty cute. Just, um, don’t look at the price tags (they run up to $500). {Refinery 29}

Mastering the Barneys Warehouse Sale:
Are you planning on stopping by the Barneys Warehouse sale this Thursday but dreading the chaos? Racked NY has devised a handy survival guide to get you through the mayhem unscathed. {Racked NY}

Angie To Outfit More Than Her Brood?: Angelina clearly loves kids so it’s no surprise there are reports she might be designing kids clothes. And, since it’s Saint Angie, the proceeds will benefit the Jolie-Pitt Foundation. {Elle UK}

Doonan Trick Or Treats for Target: Simon Doonan will design a line of Halloween costumes for Target called “Costume Couture.” Of course, these costumes aren’t your average black witch dress, pointy hat and grey wig (even though that’s so hot right now). The witch is a “Diva Witch” and her dress says “Honk If I’m Fierce.” {WWD subscription required}



Anthropologie Welcomes Customers to Its Headquarters for the First Time Ever, Greets Them With Anna Sui’s Smiling Face

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 09:00 AM PDT

I headed down to Philadelphia last night to spend some time with Anthropolgie co-presidents Wendy Wurtzburger and Wendy McDevitt, the retailer’s art and antiques buyer Keith Johnson, as well as designer extraordinaire Anna Sui.

The occasion? A special screening of Man Shops Globe, Johnson’s reality television show on the Sundance Channel. The series, in its second season, documents Johnson’s travels around the world as he shops for the most incredible antiques and artwork for Anthropologie’s stores. (He told me his most amazing find over the years was the interior of a music store in Germany. The company shipped the entire interior over the Atlantic and it’s been in storage for about ten years. It’s finally being made into a room at Anthropologie’s Fashion Island outpost, and will debut at some point in 2010.)

This particular episode stars Anna Sui, who traveled with Keith to Syria. I only recently acquired cable, which means I haven’t had to time to catch the show. It’s good! The audience, made primarily of very loyal Anthropologie customers, invited specially to the screening, seemed to enjoy it as well. Moreover, the show is a great branding vehicle for Anthro–the art direction has the same feel as the store’s interiors–very scrapbook-y/vintage-y. Plus, Keith is quite funny. His camaraderie with Anna shone on screen, and we laughed several times watching them attempt to open a crazy-looking storage container from Syria or bickering with their tour guide.

But before the screening, I got the opportunity to check out the Anthropologie headquarters. They’re located in an old Navy Yard and are, like the stores, incredibly constructed and well-thought out (I’ve attached some pictures for your perusal). From the exposed beams to the tiling at the “cafeteria”–which is more like an al fresco restaurant–the environment was impressive.

I also chatted with Wendy and Wendy, Keith, and Anna. We mostly discussed Keith’s keen eye and ability to find the most irresistible items–the co-presidents admitted to spending some cash on personal pieces when traveling abroad with the buyer–but we also talked about Athro’s ever-so committed customer base. As I was interviewing Anna, asking her about everything from the trip with Keith to her own line for Anthropologie to her fall buys (she’s already scooped up a pair of grey Lanvin moccasin boots, swoon) a very determined woman and her lovely daughter unknowingly interrupted our conversation. I didn’t even mind, because they were so excited to be there and to meet Anna.

And that’s what success is about right? Plenty of loyal people who love the product you make.

This episode of Man Shops Globe airs tomorrow at 10pm EST on Sundance. Enjoy!

Pieces from Keith's travels. Co-presidents Wendy and Wendy are my idols. Keith chatting with a reporter. Anna Sui with fans. The crowd of Anthro-lovers at the event.



American Apparel is $120 Million in Debt and Might Actually Have to File for Bankruptcy

Posted: 17 Aug 2010 08:00 AM PDT

It’s looking more and more dire for American Apparel.

In the company’s most recent financial statement, released today, AA remarks that it “may not have sufficient liquidity necessary to sustain operations for the next twelve months.”

Eek. There are plenty of reasons as to why this is happening. As we’ve reported in the past, the company is heavily in debt–$120 million. It owes one lender–Lion Capital–over $80 million. What’s more, same store sales over the last quarter were down by 16%.

AA says it’s trying to work something out with Lion Capital. The retailer has also switched auditors, since its last auditor resigned. (Usually, if a company is really screwed, the auditor will just resign instead of reporting that it’s screwed.)

Here’s what it comes down to: Dov Charney started with an awesome concept but expanded too rapidly. Charney also let his controversial “work policies” hinder the brilliance of his brand. (When you own a public company, you’re not only answering to your customers and your employees, but also to shareholders. You have to live and work by a different set of much stricter rules.)

Will AA really close for good? I still find this highly unlikely. If Charney and co. are forced to file for bankruptcy protection, someone will swoop in and save them. (Maybe Ron Burkle, who now owns 6% of the company?) It will probably mean less American Apparel stores, but honestly, they’ve become as ubiquitous as Starbucks in New York. I admittedly like to shop at American Apparel, but do I need two of them within walking distance of my apartment? Not really.



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