jueves, 12 de agosto de 2010

Why Gap Relinquished Sponsorship of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund to J.Crew and Ann Taylor” y 11 mas

Why Gap Relinquished Sponsorship of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund to J.Crew and Ann Taylor” y 11 mas

Why Gap Relinquished Sponsorship of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund to J.Crew and Ann Taylor

Posted: 12 Aug 2010 07:00 AM PDT

For the first time since 2007, Gap will have little to do with the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.

J.Crew is sponsoring this year’s scholarship, which surely means that by next summer, J.Crew stores will be stocked with special items designed by the winners.

Ann Taylor, a brand that’s tried to mimic J.Crew in its styling, will fund an October fashion show in Los Angeles, where models will show off designs created for the retailer. (Remember, nominees this year include Prabal Gurung and Christian Cota, so expect to see some fabulous holiday party dresses on the runway.)

It’s clear that J.Crew has forked over plenty of cash to be this year’s marquee sponsor. (We’re talking on top of the scholarship fund.) But is it worth it? Despite the great press and great clothes that came out of the Gap/CFDA collaborations, the world’s biggest retailer is struggling more than ever with its branding. (Patrick Robinson is trying to change that, and we hope that he succeeds.)

However, for J.Crew, it’s less about building momentum and more about sustaining it. This will only strengthen the prestigious reputation it already enjoys among fashion-savvy consumers.



Mayor Bloomberg Talks Fashion’s Night Out While Anna Wintour, Mary-Kate Olsen, and Other CFDA Members Stand There

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 03:00 PM PDT

After living here for a while, you sometimes forget how many amazing people live and work in New York City. When we walked into City Hall for the Fashion’s Night Out kick-off press conference today, we went through security with Lisa Mayock from Vena Cava.

Then, we saw Anna Wintour walking ahead of us and Alex Wang suddenly appeared behind us. A few minutes later Marc Jacobs, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez walked in. After we were seated inside the press conference room, the following people (in addition to the aforementioned) surrounded the podium: Prabal Gurung, Zac Posen, Phillip Lim, Tracy Reese, Kenneth Cole, Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger, Thakoon Panichgul, Marcus Wainwright from Rag & Bone, Francisco Costa, Vera Wang, Tory Burch, Steven Kolb, Linda Fargo, the Mayor…and after a few moments, we noticed tiny Mary-Kate Olsen peeking her head out behind Marc.

Then, unfortunately, we died and are thus unable to report anything else about Fashion’s Night Out.

Just kidding – sort of. We tried our best to focus our attention on what Mayor Bloomberg, NYC & Company CEO George Fertitta and Saks, Inc. CEO Steve Sadove had to say about “New York City” and “The Fashion Industry” in between trying to get a better look at MK’s outfit and monitoring Anna’s facial expressions. Here’s what we got:

  • Bloomberg said of the designers standing behind him, whom he called the “definition of trendsetters”: “If they say boot cut pants are back in style, then boot cut pants are back in style.”

  • In New York City, there are 175,000 jobs in the $10 billion retail and fashion industries.
  • He got really metaphorical when discussing the CFDA fashion incubator, saying something about “sewing the seeds for the next generation of young designers.”
  • Saks, Inc. CEO Steve Sadove said the whole idea for Fashion’s Night Out happened when he got a call from Anna about how we were in the depths of a recession and she was so worried about the fashion industry and what could they do to help revive it, etc. He then said that after Fashion’s Night Out, retail sales actually improved and, direct quote, he “started to see people smile again.”
  • We were beginning to worry that the only people we were going to hear from were CEOs in suits until Marc, wearing a kilt and the shiniest earrings we’ve ever seen, took to the podium. Yay!
  • He kept it short and sweet, telling a story of how it took him an hour to walk the couple blocks from his office to his Mercer Street store on last year’s Fashion’s Night Out because people kept stopping to talk to him on the way. Instead of being annoyed, he loved it. He was happy to see people getting off their computers and going out and interacting with each other because that’s what he’s always loved about New York.
  • Then, the Mayor asked if anyone had any questions to ask him about the fashion industry. Immediately, someone asked him some ridiculous question about the city’s use of oil and energy that was not remotely relevant. The mayor smiled and gave a vague, slightly sarcastic answer and asked if anyone had any questions that have to do with fashion. Everyone smiled and laughed (including Anna).
  • Someone did ask about the future of the garment district. Bloomberg basically said that if a designer needs huge machinery or needs to produce a million t-shirts in a short amount of time, New York City is not the place to do it. But if you’re looking for talent, expertise, intelligence and artistic ability, this (NYC) is the place to find it. He then said that there are 500,000 people in New York whose jobs are “classified as manufacturing,” though we’re assuming most of those are involved with industries other than fashion and retail.
  • Overall, everyone sounded very enthusiastic about and supportive of the fashion industry and Fashion’s Night Out and making sure New York City remains the world’s fashion capital.

In other Fashion’s Night Out news, there are 950 participants currently registered to hold events throughout the five boroughs, already surpassing the participation level of last year’s event.

NYC & Company, the city’s marketing, tourism and partnership organization, has worked with more than 40 hotels to create packages for the month of September, offering exclusive FNO deals to travelers.

On August 16, a full list of event details will be available on nyc.gov (or check our own lists here and here for a sneak peak)

Tickets for “Fashion’s Night Out: The Show” will go on sale to the public on Thursday, August 19 through the Lincoln Center Box Office, starting at a very reasonable $25.

Last Night’s Parties: Jewelry Making at Camp Fenton Fallon (With Adult Beverages)

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 02:00 PM PDT

Last night Dana Lorenz of Fenton Fallon dumped out her precious craft box to let fashion bloggers have a go at creating their own Fenton Fallon-ish necklaces.

The tables were lined with all the bits and baubles that go into making that one-of-a-kind Fenton Fallon jewelry we love: heavy strips of chain in neon colors, fat strands of pearls, scraps of rhinestone costume jewelry, and much much more. It was overwhelming. Luckily there were martinis on hand (because there’s nothing like a martini for making working with tiny jewelry pliers easier).

Dana Lorenz and Erica Domesek get crafty

Lorenz gave a brief tutorial and then left us to our own devices (though she was on hand to offer help). I was pleased with my necklace but it was no Fenton Fallon. And excluding P.S. I Made This‘s Erica Domesek, who confessed that she was taking the materials home so she could perfect her necklace, everyone seemed a little flummoxed. Even when you’ve got all the materials to recreate a Fenton Fallon masterpiece, it’s pretty hard to replicate the real thing.

The high-fashion arts and crafts sesh left us with a newfound respect for Lorenz’s creative genius. We’ll keep on blogging and leave the linking and plier-ing and crafting to her.



Racked Dealfeed: Matthew Williamson, Archetype Showroom, Ports 1961, and More

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 01:30 PM PDT

Matthew Williamson
Deal: Up to 40 percent off pre-spring and spring/summer collections of the designer’s womenswear.
When/Where: Through Tuesday, August 31. Mon—Sat 11am—7pm, Sun 12:30—6pm. 415 West 14th St near Ninth Ave (212-255-9881)

Archetype Showroom
Deal: Dresses ($30 to $45), denim ($25), jackets ($45), t-shirts ($20), button-downs ($30), and accessories (under $30) from labels like April77, LnA, KAI-AAKMANN, Quail, and YMB
When/Where: Thursday, August 12 and Friday, August 13. Daily 10am—7pm. 676 Broadway between Great Jones and Bond Sts, second floor (212-529-1407)

Kisan
Deal: 50% to 70% off womenswear and accessories by labels like Vanessa Bruno, Tsumori Chisato, and Antik Batik. Shoes by Robert Clergerie are also 70 percent off.
When/Where: Through Wednesday, August 11. Mon—Wed 11am—7pm. 125 Greene St between Prince and West Houston Sts (212-475-2470)

American Apparel
Deal: Enter code p4555-by46578 at checkout to save 25% off your order
When/Where: Until August 31, 2010, Online!

Ports 1961
Deal: 50% off Spring/Summer collection.
When/Where: Monday – Saturday, 10am to 6pm; Sunday 11am to 5pm. 8483 Melrose Place

Forget the Eiffel Tower: This Guide Reveals Paris’ Hidden APC Outlet Store and Rick Owens’ Secret Hangouts

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 01:00 PM PDT

Ever wonder where Rick Owens shops for socks, or where the staff of Colette hides away to work out? Go Go Paris, a fashion insider’s guide to the City of Lights, wants to tell you the city’s best secrets.

Started by transnational hipster and journalist Kate van den Boogert, the series of pamphlets aims to shed light on another, more relevant side of the city to people who are sick of hearing about the Eiffel Tower and the Mona Lisa.

Having lived in Paris most of my life, I can honestly say I've seen as many tourists as I've witnessed bad guidebooks. (And the same applies to New York–how many Europeans come over and only know about Time Square?)

Well, you'll be happy to hear that I’m impressed with Go Go. An example of the goodness: In the latest issue, Guillaume Henry, new artistic director of Carven, reveals that he likes to rummage through vintage books in a tiny bookstore on the rue de Rivoli, and his favorite hangout is a taxidermy haunt on the Left Bank.

And in each of its seasonal issues, the guide features a selection of fashion figures who live in the French capital, who map out their own version of the town.

Go Go also tells you which hotels (affordable, decent ones, filled with attractive waiters, not tourist traps), restaurants, and clubs to go to, along with the dress code, and crowd type. It also offers advice on where to get your hair cut in case of emergency, and venues that you just must know as a self-respecting, nomadic fashion enthusiast.

There’s more–it introduces you to Paris' long-kept secrets. For example, where to find the APC Outlet Store (yes, there is one, with current and past collections at least half-priced; it is an urban legend amongst locals). There’s also an Alaïa outlet, but shhhh.

For those of you coming over for Ready to Wear week next month, Ms. Boogert is working on a special fashion week edition, with addresses of descent bistros around the show venues, but also with Go Go discounts, events, and parties, bien sûr!

Street Style: Ana’s Graphic Touches

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 12:30 PM PDT

Name: Ana

Age: 23

Occupation: Graphic Designer

Where are you from originally? Vienna

What area in NYC do you enjoy most? Probably Meatpacking or SoHo.

What is your favorite store in New York? Phillip Lim, Opening Ceremony, the flea market in Williamsburg, and Zara.

If you were to get a tattoo today, what would it be? I actually want to get the stars on my feet removed!

What is your current favorite song? “Mouth Full of Diamonds” by Phantogram

What are the most prominent colors in your wardrobe? Lots of beige, grays, black, white, and some pastels.

Where is your necklace from? Holland

Where is your belt from? The belt and the skirt are both from Zara.

Where is your bag from? It’s vintage Helmut Lang from the Brooklyn Flea; I got it this weekend.

And your shoes? They’re from Antwerp.

**All photos by Ashley Jahncke.

ana ana-necklace ana-portrait ana-2 ana-closer ana-shoes ana-belt



Former Jane Staffer Kelley Culp Named Editor-in-Chief of Full Frontal Fashion

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 12:00 PM PDT

Growing up, my favorite magazines were Sassy and Jane. I paid almost as much attention to the bylines as I did to the articles. (The voices were so strong that I felt like I kind of knew these people. And seeing as I wanted to be a fashion writer, I hoped that I eventually would.) It’s been interesting to observe where my favorites have ended up in the aftermath of Jane‘s demise. Some are still around. But others have seemingly fallen off the face of the glossy earth. (Can you hear me, Claudine Ko? I miss your hilarity!)

Anyways, one ex-Jane staffer just got a big job. Kelley Culp, most recently a fashion editor at Page Six Magazine, which also shuttered, is now the editor-in-chief of FullFrontalFashion.com, the leg of Sundance responsible for those great pre-fashion week documentaries, as well as Joe Zee’s new show.

Along with promoting the Sundance Channel’s fashion content, the site will feature fashion news, features, and work by contributors like Lynn Yaeger, Indigo Clarke, Elizabeth Spiridakis and Cator Sparks.

Good luck to Kelley! We hope there’s a bit of Jane‘s humor and wit infused into FFF’s content.



Temple St. Clair Talks Past, Present, and Target

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 11:00 AM PDT

When one of her personal designs caught the eye of a Europe-based Barneys buyer, Temple St. Clair went from studying art and literature in Florence to running a full-fledged fine jewelry line.

Twenty-five years later, her eponymous line is sold in Bergdorf and Saks, and its signature rock crystal amulets remain a mainstay among the well-off boho crowd. The designer remains refreshingly independent in the corporate era, running the business with her husband and using her role as a well-known designer to benefit philanthropic causes both environmental and cultural.

Later this month, her audience will expand way beyond uptown doyennes and the West Village gypset when Temple St. Clair for Target hits shelves on August 29. In anticipation of this milestone, we spoke with the designer on her Florentine roots, working with the retail giant, and why coral belongs in the ocean, not around your neck.

Fashionista: Tell us about the early days of your main line.
Temple St. Clair: The Mediterranean was the root of my inspiration, [which can be seen in my use of] a yellow gold, and a lot of colored gems, and a lot of granulation detail. It was sort of very organic. I'd be traveling, and I'd be in Turkey, and there'd be architectural details that I'd take note of…that I'd turn into a piece of jewelry. It has evolved over the years and become sort of more modern in a way but sort of a modern classic. It works in a little bit more structured manner in that I actually have a timeline I have to stick to. I'm pretty much a year out. Right now I'm finishing up Fall 2011.

A necklace from Temple St. Clair's main collection.

That's even earlier than fashion! You've named Fall 2010 the "Odyssey" collection. It seems you've moved east from Italy and the Mediterranean.
One of my children was reading The Odyssey for school, so we've had a lot of discussions about the Persian Empire, Helen of Troy, and the exchange of cultures…my imagination got going and I thought, “I’ll create a modern Helen of Troy's jewel box.” So that’s part of the collection: Very limited edition, almost one-of-a-kind pieces. And then at the same time, in my imagination—and this is why I think I'm so lucky I do what I do because I get to sort of daydream and turn it into jewelry—I'm thinking, Troy was ancient Greece, but it was [physically] in Turkey. So there was the influence of the east, which brought an evil eye into the collection. And then from the more Western ancient Greece influence, there's an amphora shape, a beautiful shaped vessel that I've always wanted to incorporate [in pieces].

Onto Target. Were you at all hesitant to do the collaboration?
I've said no to plenty of others, but Target was an easy choice. I really like how they showcase designers and how they support the arts. When they approached me I was flattered, because it puts me in great company, with the ready to wear designers that have worked with them. I don't feel like it compromises my brand in anyway.

There are obvious limitations though. You're not working with real stones and gold.
In a way there are fewer limitations. Target, first of all, is so masterful in facilitating what a designer wants to do…and [they] take care of production and sourcing. In my main collection, [sourcing is] tremendously difficult, because all of our stone choices are without compromise. So if I want to use a large aquamarine, it has to be a natural stone, and it has to have a certain color saturation. In the Target collection, I could say I want to do a necklace of all these large stones matched in this color, which basically don't exist in nature, and do it in fakes. It's sort of like I could draw up anything I wanted. [It's] meant to be fun. It's priced for fun, and it's pieces you don't have to worry about.

Rings from the Temple St. Clair Fall 2010 collection.

Any favorite pieces?
I love all the charm pieces. [They're] fun to wear to the beach, they're really easy, and can be layered. I can't wait to see them in stores. I hope I get a few pieces before they all go!

Tell me about Too Precious To Wear (a coral preservation campaign led by Sea Web, an non-profit organization in Washington).
I sort of have a lifetime involvement with the ocean. I've been an avid snorkeler from a young age, a scuba diver since I was a teenager, and I actually went on a few study trips with Jean Michel Cousteau. Celine Cousteau, Jean Michel's daughter, brought the Too Precious To Wear people to me…We're trying to explain that coral is the [oceanic] equivalent of the rainforest: it's the foundation of the ecosystem and if it's wiped out there are a lot of other species that will be wiped out as well. So I've been very actively trying to get other jewelry design colleagues to pledge that they will not use coral. I'm doing a lot with the imagery of coral in my Spring 2011 collection, and we'll choose one [piece] to help the Too Precious To Wear campaign.

Temple St. Clair for Target hits stores and the web August 29. The Odyssey collection from her main line will be in stores and at www.templestclair.com August 16.



Fashion News Roundup: Grast’s Subway Store, J.C. Penney Ups Its Game & More

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 10:00 AM PDT

Going Underground: Graphic-guru Grast announces its plans to open up shop in a very unlikely location–the Port Authority subway station. {Refinery 29}

A Pretty Penney: J.C. Penney’s collab with Mango hits stores August 18th. {Wall Street Journal}

Independent Woman: Donna Karan plans to lead a fashion show at the first-annual Women: Inspiration and Enterprise Symposium in New York, a one-day event covering topics from childbirth to the business world. The best part? All proceeds will go toward the White Ribbon Alliance for Safe Motherhood. {Vogue UK}

Dirty Little Secret: Victoria’s Secret is being sued by Valley Lane Industries for allegedly bullying a Chinese shoe manufacturer into signing an exclusive deal. {New York Daily News}

Tempting Textiles: Looking for a graphic punch for fall? Peter Pilotto and co-designer Christopher de Vos plan to launch a collab-line with British staple brand Liberty that promises some seriously stunning textiles. {Racked}

Volcom Presents Volcom x Jennifer Herrema

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 09:30 AM PDT

We’re excited for the launch of Volcom x Jennifer Herrema, lead singer of the band RTX. Expect tons of distressed and dirty washes, urban-grunge inspirations, and even a few surprises pioneered by Jennifer herself. Click on over to Volcom.com/JJ to see what all the noise is about.

I Want to Be the Girl…in Proenza Schouler’s New Campaign

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 09:00 AM PDT

A short, pleated skirt. Cropped blazer. Thigh high stockings. Boysenberry lips. And curved heel boots. I want these items to fill my fall wardrobe. They also happen to complete the vision of Proenza Schouler‘s Fall 2010 ad campaign.

Shot by Daniel Jackson and styled by Marie Chaix, twins Ann and Kirby Kenny and model du jour Tati Cotliar are looking pretty damn perfect.

See the behind-the-scenes video on ProenzaSchouler.com.

10 Questions for The Rachel Zoe Project

Posted: 11 Aug 2010 08:00 AM PDT

1. Are the white robes and white orchids meant to help Rachel relax? I don’t think it’s working.

2. Why does Brad need to look more rugged and hetero because he is now Rachel’s style director? And since when does an artfully draped scarf = more hetero? That airy delicate striped scarf Rodger wears throughout this episode does not so much scream hetero to me. But Rachel might be on to something with her “nothing sexier than a gay man that looks straight” theory.

3. Do you like Brad’s sportier look? I am not digging that track suit zip-up black and white jacket thing. I like the bow ties!

4. Are the contrived bing commercials starring Rachel and Rodge super annoying to everyone else, too?

5. So I guess Starworks PR is going to be a part of this season? Why?

6. Did anyone else feel bad for Lucio after hauling that Versace dress from Pierce Brosnan’s Malibu home to Rachel’s office only to have it rejected as a possibility for the Globes?

7. Wasn’t that a lot of exposed Brad thigh during pilates? Bravo seems to be embracing Brad’s man candy appeal this season. As well they should. Brad, your legs are definitely ready for short shorts season.

8. Is Rachel really taking the “high road” when it comes to the Taylor firing? Talking shit about her, even in a roundabout way (i.e. letting the rest of her team dump on her), on national TV, doesn’t seem like the high road. And did Rodger just compare dealing with Taylor to negotiating with terrorists?

9. How much do you love Brad’s cuffed-pants-Golden Globes-dance?

10. Umbrellas on the red carpet? Not such a horrible thing. Those red carpet photos were whimsical and adorable. Also, thoughts on new girl Ashley? I like her and her side braid.
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