martes, 24 de agosto de 2010

Mad Men Style Recap: Episode 5” y 11 mas

Mad Men Style Recap: Episode 5” y 11 mas

Mad Men Style Recap: Episode 5

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 02:20 PM PDT

It may be 1965 on Mad Men, but Don, Sally, Betty, and Roger’s problems are summed up best by Bowie in 1971: “Time may change me, but I can’t trace time.” Betty, Roger, and Sally cannot get over their issues and move on, but the world is changing around them rapidly. Betty will forever loathe Don, Roger will loathe the Japanese, and Sally is acting out over her parents’ neglect and harsh techniques.

Even though Betty’s anger is spiraling out of control, I’m happy to have her back after a two episode absence, mostly for the dramatic return of her amazing wardrobe. Her 1950s housewife look of seasons one, two, and three has given way to her ice queen wardrobe of 1965. Gone are her full skirts and flouncy blonde locks, replaced by super slim, stoic pieces and the worst helmet hair I have ever seen.

Her first look is a blue turtleneck that’s knit so tight it needs a zipper down the back to allow the wearer to put it on. Worn with slim black and gray horizontal striped pants, something only an ex-model could pull off, this look is cut so close to the body that any excruciating movement and it would rip at the seams, much like Betty herself. She later wears an ivory cardigan with red floral trim over a blue dress, a white nightie with a pink ruffly cover-up, and finally, a sky blue dress with white piping and pearls to meet with Dr. Edna. Every look is neurotically perfect, from the tailoring to the accessories, I’m guessing from the lack of wire hangers in her closet–if you get my drift.

With the return of Betty comes the return of Henry Francis. Henry is unwelcome in my heart not only because I’m a loyal Don supporter, but because his penchant for hideous sweaters is rivaled only by that of Bill Cosby. The cross over collared sweater he wears feels uncomfortable and creepy. I guess the real problem is this: important men of 1965 have a dress code. Suits or shirts; no sweaters. Even when Don drops off the kids he’s in a fedora and red polo shirt. Why is Henry always in a sweater? Is it that he is weak or because he’s untrustworthy? Either way, I expect more from a politician type. His perma-sweater is signaling his strange nature, and I’m just waiting for that to manifest itself.

Also making a triumphant return is the wonderful Sally Draper. Sally is one of the most intriguing and best-developed characters on Mad Men, and she’s only ten! Sally’s first look is an ivory sweater over a patterned shirt and knee socks, deceptively innocent looking, until she chops her hair off in a Taylor Momsen mullet. No worries though, it gets repaired into a Betty Draper bob in no time. She later wears a pink and white nightgown complete with ruffles and sugary sweetness to counter her masturbatory acts. Finally, Sally gets her punk out at Dr. Edna’s in, what I can only assume was a subtle “F*** You” to Betty, a plaid jumper and shocking orange tights. Even more shocking was Carla’s bowler hat. I expect more from you Carla.

Family matters aside, the fashion at SCDP took a swift turn to chic with the arrival of the Japanese businessmen representing Honda, who all wore ties with an embroidered “H” on them. Everyone was on their best behavior to woo the clients, particularly Pete, whose electric blue suit was nowhere to be found. Instead he wears a series of gray suits that are authoritative but not overwhelming. Pete also rocks some of the skinniest ties since Hedi Slimane in this episode. Burt’s bow ties and careful mix and match aesthetic was spot on last night, as was Lane’s fantastic black suit jacket, black and gray vest, white shirt, and red tie ensemble.

But Roger. You know how to tell Roger Sterling is a conservative thinker? Because this entire episode he wears black on black three piece suits, potentially the most conservative thing you can wear other than a Richard Nixon costume. Roger is the silver fox of SCDP, but he’s starting to get a little too silver and a lot less foxy.

Don Draper also makes a triumphant return this episode, playing Don Draper better than he had ever before. Seemingly out of his binge drinking bender, Don is the only person that when met with a challenge, rises to the occasion instead of acting rashly. Don’s diagonal monochrome ties, the bane of my existence, took a hiatus for some newer black and gray thick striped ones. His gray suit during the meeting with Honda is unbearably wonderful, and his date night outfit with Bethany was quirky and relaxed. Bethany was channeling Holly Golightly verbatim, wearing a copy of Holly’s signature Givenchy black dress and a sophisticated updo.

The ladies at SCDP are struggling with change, too. Joan’s repitition of outfits, however real, is ruining her fashion potential. I’m not a fan of her navy and white ruffled dress or her plum colored suit. Joan was always a sexpot, but the changes at SCDP have made her more of a business woman, I just wish that those two could find a happier meeting point. Faye still looks like a glorified flight attendant, but her cunning is what make her fun. She drinks sake with Don in a yellow, navy, and white tie neck blouse and black pencil skirt, pumps off on the floor. Her faux wedding ring is a wise move in the sex crazed world of 1960s business, but a strange decision for a psychologist.

Finally, Peggy hit it home last night in a red and blue plaid dress, a black high necked dress with gradient beige striped pleats, and a black sweater and red skirt to ride in circles on a Honda motorbike. The last image of Peggy on the Honda was Irving Penn-ish, and brought back some classic Mad Men style that was a mainstay of previous seasons.



Racked Dealfeed: No.6, TenOverSix, Barneys, and More

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 02:00 PM PDT

No.6
Deal: 50% to 70% off new designers, 50% off the No.6 collection, 20% off all vintage, and 20% off summer clog stock
Continue reading “No.6″
When/Where: Tuesday, August 3 through Sunday, August 8 for clogs; ongoing for everything else. Mon—Sat noon—7pm, Sun noon—6pm. 6 Centre Market Pl between Broome and Grand Sts (212-226-5759)

Barneys Warehouse Sale
Deal: 50% to 75% off designer clothing, shoes, and accessories, plus housewares
When/Where: Thursday, August 19 through Monday, September 6. Thurs August 19—Fri August 20 8am—9pm, Sat—Sun 10am—7pm, Mon—Fri 10am—9pm, Mon September 6 10am—7pm. 255 W. 17th St between Seventh and Eighth Aves (212-450-8400)

Confessions of Three Shopaholics Sale
Deal: Over 700 items—shoes included—from designers like Chanel, Prada, Marc Jacobs, Theory, and DVF. Shoes and clothing. Prices range from $10 to $400. Cash only.
When/Where: Tuesday, August 24, 5pm—9pm. 545 W. 25th St between Tenth and Eleventh Aves, eighth floor (no phone)

TenOverSix
Deal: 40% to 70% off spring/summer items, including goods from Rachel Comey, Vena Cava, and Opening Ceremony.
When/Where: Mon-Sat 11am-6pm, Sun 12pm-5pm. 7427 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles (323-330-9355).

Saks Fifth Avenue
Deal: Extra 25% off already reduced prices on merchandise from Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Ann Demeulemeester and more
Where/When: Online through August 23

Why L.A. Triumph Can Sue Madonna Over “Material Girl” Line and Win

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 01:14 PM PDT

Late last Thursday, apparel manufacturer L.A. Triumph Inc., filed suit against Madonna, claiming that her “Material Girl” line for Macy’s threatens their own “Material Girl” clothing line that they have been selling since 1997.

L.A. Triumph is hoping a judge will rule that Madonna’s new tween line creates confusion among consumers (“deception in the marketplace” in legalese) and that Madonna should fork over all her “Material Girl” profits to L.A. Triumph.

So how is it that Madonna, the original “Material Girl,” she who sang the song, could be infringing on L.A. Triumph’s trademark?

We checked in with our resident fashion trademark expert, attorney Anne Sterba, of leading intellectual property firm Rothwell, Figg, Ernst & Manbeck, to find out if L.A. Triumph has a leg to stand on.

“The bottom line is that Madonna had a song and has been known as the ‘Material Girl’ but if she hasn’t sold any products under the name ‘Material Girl,’ she has no trademark in the name,” says Sterba. “Madonna has a copyright in the song, but a copyright and a trademark are completely different. L.A. triumph my have priority over her in respect to selling clothes under the “Material Girl” trademark and they could win.”

Sterba thinks Madge will likely file a counterclaim, and could argue that malicious intent on the part of L.A. Triumph, to market their clothes under the “Material Girl” name when the public knows Madonna as the Material Girl.

It should be interesting, to say the least, to watch this all play out.



Quote of the Day: Jessica Szohr Crushes on Jenny Humphrey’s Wardrobe

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 12:30 PM PDT

“I personally think Jenny has the best wardrobe on the show – it's kind of grungy, but girly, without being too put together. Blair is too structured and perfect, Serena is always glammed up. Vanessa's waaaay too much with every color and pattern. It sounds like I'm being negative about them all, but I'm not – I think they all look great. But if I was going to go shopping for [me], I'd head straight into Jenny's closet." –Gossip Girl’s Jessica Szohr in September’s Nylon.

Street Style: Blake Does Grey and Pink

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 12:00 PM PDT

Name: Blake

Age: 25

Occupation: Owner of the shop Ferality (Feralityshow.com)

What is your favorite item that you sell in your store? Nicholas K men's sweaters

What are the most prominent colors in your wardrobe? Grey and pink

What is your favorite nail polish color? Red and turquoise–I like the color combination.

What is your favorite Disney character? Fievel from Fievel Goes West!

What is your motto? It’s safer to take a risk.

Where is your dress from? Laundry

**All photos by Ashley Jahncke.



Launch Collective Needs a Fall Intern!

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 11:49 AM PDT

Launch Collective is looking for an intern to start immediately for the fall semester to focus on social media and e-commerce. Launch Collective is a business management agency providing strategic and operational support to a diverse range of fashion and lifestyle companies.

Responsibilities for Interns will include but are not limited to:

* Daily maintenance of social media accounts (Facebook, Twitter, StyleCaster, Polyvore, Sense of Fashion, etc.) and the ability to generate unique content for them.
* Help to provide digital marketing strategies.
* Tracking and organizing internet/blog press hits.
* Merchandize websites and upload product.
* Assist in review of web traffic and e-commerce sales.
* General office and administrative duties.

We are looking for someone with an interest in fashion and social media. Candidates must be hardworking, organized, able to multitask, and willing to work with a team. Knowledge of Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign is a must for the intern. They must also be able to receive school credit and be available for a minimum of two full days per week.

Please send you cover letter and resume to kim@launchcollective.com.



Sally’s Styling Seminary: A Stylist’s Secret Weapon

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 11:00 AM PDT

I believe every top stylist has a very special Secret Weapon. What is this secret weapon, you ask? An incredible first assistant. A brilliant lead assistant is one of the roles that holds the entire business together for the stylist. This week I am going to ramble a bit about how extremely important it is to have an incredible, reliable assistant and/or team of assistants.

A first assistant, FA for short, is a jack-of-all-trades. The responsibilities for a head assistant include every aspect of the stylist’s business. After sitting down and making a shortlist of what my assistant handles for me, I came up with these 13 fundamental responsibilities:

1. Research: FA can find the story styled by Grace Coddington and shot by Patrick Demarchelier for the first issue of Anna Wintour’s US Vogue without asking 500 questions or looking for five minutes and then telling you they can’t find it. An FA finds the story and creates the most fabulous scans of the story and also scans the rest of the main well from the issue, just to have on hand.

2. Prepping: A stylist doesn’t always have the time to go through every show on Style.com to choose looks for a story, so the FA steps in and makes a first edit. The FA can pull the best looks for the concept the stylist is creating, from designers the stylist loves and the credits the magazine needs. This saves the stylist hours of time.

3. Shopping: The FA is the best treasure hunter ever. On some advertising jobs, a stylist can get the impossible task of finding orange boy’s swimming shorts in December. You will find the shorts in five other variations as additional options, come in under budget and will only shop at stores where the unused product can be returned for a full refund.

4. Pulling: Pulling is different from shopping in the sense that the FA becomes a liaison for the stylist because he or she is then acting as company representative with a designer’s PR contact or store manager. Also, when the FA is pulling from a showroom or shop, he/she needs to know what the stylist likes enough to pull relevant items that will fit the creative ideas for the stylist and also be appropriate for the stylist’s taste level.

5. Requesting: Another moment where the FA is a representative of a stylist’s business in his/her communication with the PR contacts for designers. The FA's thorough-ness and manners becomes crucial in creating powerful relationships with the ever-important PR’s.

6. Onset Organization and Etiquette: Being on set can be the most stressful time for a stylist (dealing with 101 opinions!). Therefore, having an FA who can keep everything organized and act appropriately makes all the difference in the world. This drastically increases the stylist's ability to take care of his/her client and get great images.
7. Returns: Returns are a deceptively simple. The FA ensures the returns are impeccably checked. This entails that no items are missing and that they are packed in a way that no PR or designer gets upset…hello, this is luxury fashion! A dress valued at $20k thrown into the bottom of a three month old brown paper bag is unacceptable, and the FA knows that.



I Need, I Want, I Have to Have: Anything by Electric Feathers

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 10:00 AM PDT

This weekend Fashionista relocated to the Surf Lodge in Montauk to work on some exciting new features for the site. (You’ll just have to stay tuned to find out…). But just because we were working doesn’t mean we didn’t take a quick break to shop the venue’s pitch-perfect pocket-sized boutique.

Stocked with Suno, Mara Hoffman, Lisa Marie Fernandez, and the most adorable kids clothing by Lemlem, it was hard not to want everything in the store. Even the kids’ clothes. But the designs that caught my eye were the lighter-than-air hand-dyed silk creations–tunics and wrap dresses–by label Electric Feathers.

I was particularly smitten with a light purplish dress that was open at the back and cinched with an obi. I never wanted to take it off until I looked at the price tag. Over $800 is a little steep for my budget, but Leana Zuñiga, the designer behind the indie label, works only in the most delicate and luxurious silks, hand dyes them to perfectly muted hues of purple, gray-blue, celadon, and orangey-reds, and designs each piece so it can be worn several different ways. And her designs are completely unique. I forgive her the high price tag.

So until I win the lottery, or Electric Feathers decides to have a really good sample sale, a Leana Zuñiga will stay at the top of my wish list.

Click through for looks from her most recent collection.

Barneys Names Former Gucci Head Mark Lee CEO

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 09:44 AM PDT

Today, Dubai investment firm Istithmar World officially announced that former Gucci head Mark Lee would assume the role of CEO at Barneys New York.

Former Barneys CEO Howard Socol left the company in 2008 after rumored frustrations with the store’s new owners. Istithmar acquired Barneys from Jones Apparel Group in 2007 for about $900 million.

The recession worsened Barneys’ already shaky financial situation, and soon enough analysts began talking possible bankruptcy. Barneys previously filed for bankruptcy in the mid-’90s after a period of over-expansion.

This time around, it looked like a single investor might aim to take over the company. Billionaire Ron Burkle was purportedly interested in buying the retailer from Istithmar. The investment firm refused the offer, and eventually pumped more cash into the company.

The appointment of Lee can only be a good thing. Barneys is a pretty unique retailer in that its merchandising and creative are spot on–it’s the back end that needs work. Finding a leader who understands both sides of things is difficult, but Lee is probably the most qualified exec out there. The luxury retail vet has held positions everywhere from Saks Fifth Avenue to Jil Sander, and most recently, Gucci.



Fashion News Roundup: Ungaro’s Demise, Boobs are Back, Coco’s Video, and More

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 09:00 AM PDT

What Happened to Ungaro?: Cathy Horyn profiles the businessman behind the fall of the legendary house. {T}

Guess What? Big Boobs are Back! And It Should Make You Feel Really Bad About Yourself: The real question is: Why do these kinds of trend stories exist? {Daily Mail}

Coco’s Wedding Vid: First the still shot, now some action. Model Coco Rocha reveals a snippet of her wedding video. {Grazia UK}

Sewell’s Liberation: Creative consultant Yasmin Sewell, credited with updating Liberty of London’s image, is no longer working with the company. {Vogue UK}

$5.99 for a Dress Sounds a Little Nutty, Even for H&M: Lynn Yaeger thinks so, too. {Vogue.com}

Gap’s New Pierre Hardy Wedges Cost $95, Hit Stores October 19

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 08:00 AM PDT

Image via Style.com.

I love my Gap x Pierre Hardy platform sandals, and I nearly bought last year’s towering pirate boots.

So it’s no surprise this autumn’s peep toe lace-ups are on my “To Buy” list.

The wedges have begun showing up on magazine market pages, and I’m happy to report that they’ll ring in at under $100.

Last fall, it seemed that most shoppers had quite a bit of difficulty finding the suede boots.

For some reason, I didn’t. They were available at the Gap right near my old office on lower 5th Avenue. And on the day in October Gap said they’d be there. So my ballpark estimation is mid-October. And don’t worry, I’ll keep you updated. Because I’m getting these guys come hell or high water.

Update: Success! The shoes are set to hit stores October 19, according to a Gap rep.

We Need a Fall Intern!

Posted: 23 Aug 2010 07:00 AM PDT

September is almost upon us, which means Fashion Week, Fashion Week, and two more Fashion Weeks.

To help us get through Fashion Month, we’re looking for one intern, who should be eligible to receive school credit.

The internship tenure will equal the length of one semester, and you should be able to come into our downtown New York office at least two days a week, if not three.

You should also be:

  • A good writer.

  • Proficient–if not a master–in Photoshop.
  • A close follower of industry news.
  • Well-versed in fashion history. This does not mean that you need to know every single name of every single type of blouse collar, but you should know several, as well as the exact number of times Kate Moss has appeared on the cover of British Vogue.
  • A self-starter. This internship isn’t about photocopies, it’s about covering breaking news, events, and fashion shows. It sounds exciting, but it means doing real work all day long. There isn’t much trolling on the Internet here, unless of course you’re looking for this week’s Best Dressed.

What you’ll get in return: Lots of guidance, encouragement, several clips, and a chance to introduce yourself to the industry. As a Fashionista intern you’re treated as part of the family. Interested? Send your resume, cover letter, and a 560 x 300 graphic that you believe would work well on the site to work@fashionista.com. Bonne chance!
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