miércoles, 5 de mayo de 2010

Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky Finally Hits New York Next Month” y 10 mas

Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky Finally Hits New York Next Month” y 10 mas


Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky Finally Hits New York Next Month

Posted: 05 May 2010 07:00 AM PDT



Two movies chronicling the life of Gabrielle Chanel were slated for release in 2009.

One, Marion Cotillard’s Coco Avant Chanel, opened here last September; it followed Coco from the orphanage to the atelier. The other, Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky, stars Anna Mouglalis as the designer and it’s opened almost everywhere in the world except the United States.

It finally hits theatres in New York June 11th, but we went to a screening last night and it’s very, very slow (and long).

Despite the exaggerated scenes and sweeping music, it’s a feast for the eyes—like Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette without the pink. Coco’s country house is as impeccably black and white as a tweed suit, her pearls are draped perfectly on top of every single outfit and her atelier is bright, clean and bursting with energy (or as much energy as she’d allow).

Chanel No.5 came to life during Chanel’s affair with Stravinsky, and she travels to Grasse to meet with the perfumers and wade through rose petals—the only real burst of color in the film. The clothes, including Coco’s slouchy suits, the Chanel shop girls’ outfits, partygoers’ beaded flapper dresses and the ballet’s feathered headpieces and capes are beautiful.

It may be too long for the theatre, but it’s the perfect film to play on silent in the background all day long.


From Saks to SCAD: Michael Fink Talks Fashion’s Future

Posted: 04 May 2010 03:45 PM PDT



I’ve spent the last few days at the Savannah College of Art and Design, checking out the campus and following around Chris Benz like a puppy. Yesterday, I took a few moments to sit down with Michael Fink, the Dean of the School of Fashion Design.

Fink, a fashion buyer by trade, was Saks Fifth Avenue’s women’s fashion director for years, and a familiar face on the Fashion Month circuit. Last fall, he moved down to Savannah to head up SCAD’s fashion school. There, he’s responsible for everything from critiquing the student’s work to bringing in great professional mentors like Zac Posen and Catherine Malandrino, as well plenty of other curriculum-related duties.

Sitting amidst his student’s work in one of SCAD’s classrooms, the industry veteran sat down with me to talk about the most important lessons he’s teaching his students.

Fashionista: First off, what brought you to Savannah?
Michael Fink: I was a visiting critic in the fashion department for some time, and when the college decided to break fashion away from the school of design, they asked me to move down here and be the dean. The chance to guide these students was the reason I said yes.

As a veteran of the fashion industry, what are some of the less tangible skills that you think are important for designers to possess? I think being able to sell your concept is crucial. You should be able to summarize your collection in 30 seconds or less. It’s also important to do your research. Everything is the reworking of something else–it’s important to go to the library, understand the history of fashion and your ideas so that you can take it further.

And what about the tangible? I think the basics–the foundations of design–are so important. It’s also important to excel at things like pattern making. If you can discern the difference between a good and bad pattern, you’ll know when people are trying to rip you off!

What are some misconceptions students have about the industry when they first get here?
I think we do a good job of teaching them that, while most people want to start their own label, it doesn’t always happen immediately. They need to think of the big picture–there are great jobs at mid-market brands. Around 86% of the fashion school students find jobs in their field of choice within a year of graduating.

Off the subject of SCAD for a minute–you’ve followed fashion so closely for so long. Are there any up-and-coming designers that you’re really excited about? I think there are some really wonderful, nice people, who are doing well right now. Prabal Gurung, Peter Som, John Bartlett, Matthew Ames, Wayne, Chris Benz–they all listen to their customers. They care about what their customers want. Nice goes a long way!

(Full disclosure: SCAD paid for me to fly down here to cover Chris Benz’s lecture, and they also paid for my room and board.)


In Defense of Katy Perry

Posted: 04 May 2010 02:40 PM PDT



Emblazoned on the cover of WWD today is a picture of Katy Perry wearing a chiffon puffy confection at the Met Ball last night. I had to look more closely to see what exactly was going on with that dress, and of course by now we all know that it was covered in LED lights. Sigh. More over-the-top kookiness from Katy, who doesn't seem to care that after every event, she ends up on multiple worst-dressed lists.

After studying the looks at the Met Ball last night and thinking about the past few boring red carpets, I've decided that Katy's chutzpah is refreshing. Are her choices tacky and would I wear them? Mostly and probably not. But she hits every red carpet with a firm sense of who she is and is consistent in her fashion choices, never mind what we all think of her taste level.

So many red carpets bring us starlets in Marchesa, Valentino, Elie Saab, more Marchesa. Pretty and flattering, but not surprising or the least bit interesting. Safe. Then there are celebrities like Tina Fey and Kristen Stewart who seem completely intimidated and confused by fashion; both have admitted as much. It's hard to watch them standing there sometimes. Women who often get it right, with taste, a sense of humor, and personal style, like Chloe Sevigny and the Olsens, are frequently criticized in the mainstream media.

Fashion is about personal expression, an image, and for those of us who watch it, entertainment. I live for the moments when fashion makes me gasp. If this sometimes manifests as a swan dress or an electric frock, bring it on. Kudos, Katy.


But Would Kate Lanphear Wear “The Lanphear Dress?”

Posted: 04 May 2010 01:41 PM PDT



We’re not sure what Plastic Island is, but we do know who Kate Lanphear is.

Elle’s Style Director’s lands in front of almost every street style lens and gets name checked alongside editors like Anna Dello Russo’s and Emmanuelle Alt all the time, but she might be the first to have something named after her.

Plastic Island’s called their saggy white shirt dress, “The Lanphear.”

We’ve noticed inspired names in the past—a Miuccia skirt, Stam everything, and all of Alex Wang’s named-for-models shoes—but this may be the first product named for a fashion editor.

Is it only a matter of time until Dolce’s sending the Russo down the runway and Karl offers a Wintour clutch? The names may not be actual endorsements, but does the association help sell the product?


Behind the Scenes: Karl Lagerfeld Shoots Eres

Posted: 04 May 2010 12:57 PM PDT



Last week, Eres and Chanel announced they were teaming up for a spring lookbook.

That would be this spring, which makes the lookbook the first—that we’ve ever heard of—to debut when the clothes featured are actually in stores.

It’s not actually a book, but a series of cards featuring Emily Didonato wearing Chanel, until you rip the top layer off and she’s wearing Eres. But these exclusive behind the scenes shots are even better, mostly because you get to see inside Karl’s studio, which is covered in walls and walls of books.

Of course, watching Karl peer into his silver camera and strike his own pose is fun, too.


Why Chloe Sevingy & LSD Always Look Perfect

Posted: 04 May 2010 12:19 PM PDT



"I couldn't pull off your dress," Ms. Sevigny said to Ms. Santo Domingo, "and you couldn't pull off mine." –Overheard by Cathy Horyn at last night’s Met Ball.


Photographers, a-ten-hut!

Posted: 04 May 2010 11:48 AM PDT



Which famed photographer decided to give the Australian Army a go before discovering his passion for photography?


Chris Benz: Relationships are the Key to a Successful Career in Fashion

Posted: 04 May 2010 11:02 AM PDT



For the past couple of days, I’ve been lucky enough to spend time with designer Chris Benz and his team on a visit to the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD).

We’ve been celebrating SCAD Style, a nine-day series of lectures, exhibitions, panel discussions, book signings and workshops that focus on preparing students for creative careers. This year’s participants include everyone from Kelly Cutrone to Fern Mallis to Victoria Bartlett.

Chris’ role was to give a talk on building a successful fashion brand, so he was joined on stage last night by business partner Ashley Abess, vice president of sales Kelly Stinnett, director of business development Eugene Migliaro and actress Eva Amurri, his good friend and muse (she frequently wears his dresses on the red carpet).

Of course, the students wanted to know how Chris got his start–it was interning for Marc Jacobs at 17–but the designer and his crew took it a step further, explaining how the company works holistically. It was such positive conversation and the students seemed genuinely excited to meet Chris and chat with his team afterward. Here were the big takeaways:

Relationships might be the most important element of running a successful business, no matter what medium you’re working in.
Ashley and Chris met at age 16 while attending a summer program at Parsons. Today they’re business partners. Eugene and Kelly met while working at Ralph Lauren. Eugene and Chris met while working at Marc Jacobs. The company’s casting director is also a friend from Parsons. “Look at the person next to you, because you will cross paths with them during your career,” said Ashley.

Learning how the business works is just as important as designing great clothes. Chris worked at J.Crew for a few years after graduation, designing dresses under CEO Mickey Drexler and fashion director Jenna Lyons. “We had to deliver 16 collections a year,” he explained. That experience was as valuable as the work he did while interning at Marc Jacobs.

If you want to produce everything locally, you can. About 98% of all Chris Benz clothing is produced in New York City. While his prices aren’t low, they aren’t outrageous either. (Dresses hover in the $1,000 range.) “Using the garment center means that we can maintain control over the quality of the clothes,” said Ashley. “Anyone who tells you it’s impossible [to manufacture a collection in New York] hasn’t done their legwork.”

A big part of being a designer is selling your vision. The team travels from Chicago to Los Angeles to meet with store owners, buyers and stylists. Chris talks to the customers to see what they love and what they think could be different. “About 5 to 10% of my job is actually designing clothes,” he explained. “The rest is hitting the pavement.”

Fashion is a grueling industry, but don’t let the naysayers fool you: It’s quite glamorous, too.
Chris loves fashion, and he loves his job. “It’s good to enjoy what you do!”

(Full disclosure: SCAD paid for me to fly down here to cover Chris’ lecture, and they also paid for my room and board.)


Lyell Shutters/Breaks My Heart

Posted: 04 May 2010 10:10 AM PDT



Not to be melodramatic, but I was wearing my favorite red Lyell dress when I heard yesterday’s news that the New York-based label is shutting down.

Designer Emma Fletcher says that “after seven years and with a lease that is running out, I have decided to say goodbye for now. Lyell is my heart and soul…. However, it is time now to take break.”

This isn’t the first label I’ve loved that’s gone away.

Mayle is another, but Lyell holds a special place in my heart. A good friend bought me that red dress for my 24th birthday nearly four years ago, and since then I’ve acquired several other pieces, from a burgundy puffed sleeve chiffon frock to a polka dotted blouse. While my style is decided more boyish these days, I still pull out those pieces now and again. I just feel good wearing them.

But despite my affection, I’m not shocked Lyell is done. While the Fletcher’s line for Urban Outfitters–Fletcher by Lyell–is undoubtedly successful, it can’t supplement the costs accumulated from creating a ready-to-wear collection each season.

What’s more, Fletcher–much like her friend Jane Mayle–doesn’t prescribe to idea that a collection needs to change dramatically year after year. Fletcher would do the same dress in different colorways season after season. And while her core customer might appreciate that, buyers demand newness.

Who knows what Fletcher’s planning to do next, but let’s hope that it brings as much beauty to our lives as Lyell brought to mine.


Fashion News Roundup: Madonna in Interview, Lady Gaga’s Photo Journal & Win a Date with Andrew Mukamal

Posted: 04 May 2010 09:00 AM PDT



Material Girl: Madonna looks amazing in the new Interview. Mert & Marcus shot the black and white cover and editorial. {Interview}

A Picture Story: V Magazine gives us a peek at Lady Gaga’s photo journal, shot by Haus of Gaga’s Creative Director Matt Williams. {V}

Wine and Dine Me: Refinery29’s giving away a dinner date with Kell On Earth scene-stealer, Andrew Mukamal. One lucky winner will dine at the Tribeca Grand with Andrew and then get a complimentary room at the hotel for the night. Sounds like fun! {Refinery29}

Aussie Aussie Aussie: Susie Bubble’s in Sydney at RAFW. She’s been to a lot of shows and has the pictures to prove it. {Style Bubble}

Party Pictures: In case you still haven’t seen all the red carpet shots from last night’s Met Ball, Style.com has them all in one place, including a pic of Lady Gaga’s Armani Prive catsuit. {Style.com}

Beautiful Garbage: Contributing Editor sits down with designer Peter Prince and his team to talk about androgyny, sex and rock ‘n roll. The resulting editorial is pretty great, too. {Contributing Editor}


Chanel Goes the Way of Gucci & Louis Vuitton, Embraces Heritage

Posted: 04 May 2010 08:17 AM PDT



Louis Vuitton has its Core Values campaign, Gucci’s sent its artisans on a world tour, and Hermes always evokes a sense of history—all of which have proven a financial success this year.

So it’s about time Chanel countered.

Starting next Saturday, May 8th, New York’s 57th street store will be devoted to the history of the quilted bag.

They’re calling it an exhibition, “The Secrets of the Chanel Handbag,” and it’ll aim to show customers the bag making process, both of each individual bag and of the bags over time.

The most appealing part, however, may be the display of Chanel bags from the house’s archives, paired with more recent samples. They should really break out some vintage Chanel tweeds and make a proper exhibition out of it.


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