Osman Yousefzada Puts on Quite the Fashion Show” y 10 mas

Osman Yousefzada Puts on Quite the Fashion Show
Giles is Officially in at Ungaro, Katie Grand’s Coming With
Lauren Conrad’s Style Book Sounds as Boring as We Imagined
It’s All About Jamie Bochert in V
Adventures in Copyright: Zara Created in the Likeness of Betty
Street Style: April Loves POP and Cupcakes
Prada’s Boutiques are Buoying the Business
Vogue Paris and Mario Sorrenti Love the Beach, Will Repeat as Necessary
Rumor: Julia “Bunny Bisous” Frakes to Star in Marc Jacobs’ Fall Campaign?
Mary Portas Brings Chanel, Stella, Dior and Plenty of Prada to Her New Charity Shop

Osman Yousefzada Puts on Quite the Fashion Show

Posted: 25 May 2010 07:00 AM PDT

LONDON–Designer Osman Yousefzada claims to accomplish with pattern cutting what plastic surgeons do with scalpels. On Friday afternoon in the chasmic Raphael Gallery of London’s trove of ancient art, the Victoria and Albert Museum, he aimed to demonstrate just that. Applauded for his graceful draping and masterful cutting, the designer was tapped to showcase a taster of his past collections in the V&A’s public Fashion in Motion series.

Previous homegrown talents showcased in the triannual events include the late Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh and Vivienne Westwood.

With elongating proportions and subtle gathers, it’s easy to understand the broad allure his dresses have, especially to the finicky and often under-served over 40 set. Osman faithfuls include former first lady Sarah Brown, who has been pulling a Michelle Obama by donning the designs of young fashion talents. Other fans include Victoria Beckham, who paid the designer the biggest compliment of all by “replicating” an Osman column dress she’d once borrowed. Oh the cheek! But the poised and eloquent Osman reacted to the claims as flattery rather than with a lawsuit.

The show opened with muscular male and female dancers, in Osman creations, twirling and lunging across the mosaic floor to enchanting and subtly ethnic music. The designer, born of Afghani immigrants, is largely influenced by costume and ethnicity, citing inspirations such as the North African djellaba, samurai armor and the cheongsam. His skill lies in his ability to take the essence of each and transform them with such unfussy lines as to steer far clear of any hobo comparisons.

Like a chronological look book, the first pieces off the block were four little black dresses from his recent capsule jersey collection that were said to have been inspired by Andie MacDowell in the film Green Card. Rounding out the ’90s trend were slinky maxis, one bearing the only print design in the show, and finally the Balmain nose thumbing: cut out shoulders.

Crisp white tunics and a-lines from this summer’s collection with gold silkscreened squares made an appearance, as did jacquard tunics and boiled wool cocoon dresses from A/W 09. His newest foray into accessories looked promising, with beaten gold neck pieces and heavy squarish sunglasses.

Speaking with the designer after the show, I wondered if we might hope to see a bit of print or surface design in his future. “I still have a very kitsch and bling side that I really have to reign in,” he laughed. And if he weren’t designing clothes? “I’d be making beautiful buildings!”

While established designers are dropping like flies Osman has a lot to pleased about. For a designer barely five years into the game, he’s got the backing of major retailers like Selfridges. He is in the business of creating classics and seems to have found the right equation for it. A fact not lost on Spanish high street chain Mango, who asked him to design a little black dress for their 35 shops. Whether a perfectly tailored white shirt, which stores couldn’t stock enough of, or a jersey LBD, there’s no doubt Osman is onto something.

You can pick up his pieces Stateside at fashion importers Elizabeth Charles in NY. All photos courtesy of V&A Images.

Giles is Officially in at Ungaro, Katie Grand’s Coming With

Posted: 25 May 2010 05:46 AM PDT

Giles Deacon has officially confirmed his new post as creative director at Emanuel Ungaro.

“Various things have happened at the house recently which for legal reasons the company can’t comment on – but I like to think of the bigger picture,” Deacon told Vogue UK early this morning.

“The house and its legacy have a lot more to them than that – and there will be announcements over the coming weeks about the business. I can’t talk about them yet but various changes are being put in place.”

The designer–whose odd-but-ladylike ensembles are hugely popular here at Fashionista and elsewhere in the industry–will be bringing ex-girlfriend and current creative collaborator Katie Grand on as a consultant.

Deacon will show his first collection for Ungaro this coming October in Paris. Bonne chance!

Lauren Conrad’s Style Book Sounds as Boring as We Imagined

Posted: 24 May 2010 04:00 PM PDT

We think Lauren Conrad’s a pretty girl. She seems sweet, she’s done a lot with very little (in terms of not having a particular talent) and she appears to be genuinely excited about “designing” clothes, “writing” books and now, giving style advice. Her new guide–Lauren Conrad Style–hit stores October 2010.

But that last one–that is not one we can get behind.

Sure, everyone knows that Conrad doesn’t actually design her clothing collection for Kohl’s. And that her fiction books are ghostwritten by one writer or another. That’s common practice in Hollywood, and we don’t blame her for it.

But to give advice on personal style when yours is so limited? That makes us a little uncomfortable.

Conrad may be gorgeous. And she might wear (arguably) cute clothes. But someone is telling her what to wear. And how to wear it. The big takeaway from a recent People StyleWatch interview is that Conrad suggests taking your clothes to a tailor for a more precise fit. Revolutionary.

We think it’s interesting that people aren’t more riled about Conrad’s latest incarnation. When Gwyneth Paltrow launched her admittedly absurd newsletter GOOP, few were kind. And while GOOP has its embarrassing points, there’s no denying Paltrow does indeed have her very own, individual sense of style. And we’d rather take advice from a silly person with something to teach us than a serious person with nothing real to give.

It’s All About Jamie Bochert in V

Posted: 24 May 2010 03:00 PM PDT

Adventures in Copyright: Zara Created in the Likeness of Betty

Posted: 24 May 2010 02:20 PM PDT

This weekend personal style blogger Betty, from Le Blog de Betty, posted a picture of a Zara t-shirt that appears to have an illustrated version of her likeness on it. If we were her, we’re not sure if we’d be flattered or disturbed.

It’s undeniable that the illustration on the tee shirt was drawn from the photo of Betty. The Zara artists didn’t bother to change any details, from the hair, the denim vest, the peace sign, to the sunglasses. The most notable difference, and only, is the heart pattern that has replaced the logo on the giant cup.

Zara is not new to copying, this Miu Miu-esque cat print romper will prove. Copying Miu Miu is one thing, but why Zara would copy a photo of a blogger and turn it into a mediocre illustration–and honestly, kind of weird–t-shirt is beyond our understanding.

If Zara wants to get in on the blogger trend, why don’t they try building a Web site that’s easier to use, thereby allowing fashion-bloggers to easily scan the site and share their favorites with the world?

Street Style: April Loves POP and Cupcakes

Posted: 24 May 2010 01:26 PM PDT

Name: April

Age: 23

Occupation: I work in fashion.

Where are you from? Birmingham, England

What is your favorite magazine? POP

If you were to get a tattoo right now, what would it be? A tiny heart, somewhere inconspicuous.

How would you describe your style? Eclectic

Where is your headscarf from? It's a scrap piece of fabric that I cut off of a dress that I hemmed.

Where are you headed now? Magnolia bakery for a cupcake, if I can find it that is!

**All photos by Ashley Jahncke.

Prada’s Boutiques are Buoying the Business

Posted: 24 May 2010 12:48 PM PDT

Prada’s looking riper and riper for acquisition. Or at least a spin around the stock market.

The Italian fashion house–which deflected rumors earlier this year that it might be bought by luxury conglomerate Richemont–saw sales increase by 36% during the first quarter of 2010 to $452.7 million.

The company is attributing current successes to its focus on its own boutiques–and away from the business of wholesale, which is still a weak spot in retail. Sales increased by a whopping 62% in Asia, 33% here in the US, and an impressive 18% in Europe, Prada’s most mature market.

A sharper sales strategy is surely the main reason why Prada is doing so well, but we can’t help but think it also has something to do with these shoes. And these pants. And these sunglasses. And Victoria Traina.

Vogue Paris and Mario Sorrenti Love the Beach, Will Repeat as Necessary

Posted: 24 May 2010 12:00 PM PDT

Summer fashion editorials are upon us. That means tons of happy, sunny spreads featuring the newest, tiniest outfits only fit for ninety degree weather.

But while summer’s bright colors and sexy silhouettes should provide for a wild variety of styling options, it seems like everyone’s been going to the beach.

These two spreads from Vogue Paris–May 2010 and June/July 2010–made us wonder why the beach editorial repeatedly pops up in almost all summer mags. While the styling is wildly different, the concept and photo editing are almost identical: Hot, overly tanned, shiny model reclining, posing with a car, and oozing sex appeal.

There is yet another editorial in the June/July Vogue Paris featuring Isabeli Fontana writhing on rocks, and a Terry shot Doutzen editorial on the beach in June 2010’s US Vogue.

Frankly, all the beach spreads are starting to feel stale. Models are gorgeous, the beach is pretty, what else is new?

To be fair, there have also been plenty of desert spreads in Vogue Paris, which were gorgeous and original. We also loved the shoot of über-tanned Jac and Lily on the floor in hula skirts. It’s just the beach-focused editorials that we’re tired of.

Somehow magazines survive the winter months without multiple snow bunny spreads, so we’re sure they could make it through the summer with just one trip to the beach.

We’d bet that the proliferation of beach spreads has to do with the cost. Summer months traditionally sell less, and shooting at the beach is very cost effective since the scene is set and the light is good for most of the day. It may be a hassle to get to, but once you’re there, it’s smooth sailing.

Rumor: Julia “Bunny Bisous” Frakes to Star in Marc Jacobs’ Fall Campaign?

Posted: 24 May 2010 11:14 AM PDT

We’ve heard whispers that Paper contributor Julia Frakes might be starring in a fall Marc Jacobs campaign, but we had little evidence to confirm the rumors.

That was, until we did some snooping…via Twitter. Read this exchange between Bunny Bisous and illustrator Danny Roberts from April:

DR: @bunnyBISOUS hey my friend! Are starring in a marc jacobs ad???!
JF: Hey love! Hmmmm… RT @danny_roberts: @bunnyBISOUS hey my friend! Are starring in a marc jacobs ad???!

Frakes won’t confirm–or deny–the rumors, and she’s definitely Marc’s type. But the question remains: Did she pose for the ready-to-wear collection or Marc by Marc?

It makes more sense to see her in Marc by Marc, given her age (20) and influence, which doesn’t reach very far beyond the fashion industry. (Jacobs usually chooses full-on icons–from Charlotte Rampling to Rachel Feinstein to Victoria Beckham–for Collection advertisements.) However, the blogger is super-famous in Asia, so maybe a Marc Jacobs campaign will catapult her to a similar level of stardom here.

Either way, we’re looking forward to glimpsing the results!

Mary Portas Brings Chanel, Stella, Dior and Plenty of Prada to Her New Charity Shop

Posted: 24 May 2010 10:33 AM PDT

LONDON–The Big Smoke put on a sunny smile just in time for the grand opening of Mary Portas’ Living and Giving shop this past Saturday morning.

Portas, a retail guru and brand consultant–well-known in the UK as the Queen of Shops–teamed up with international children's rights foundation Save the Children to overhaul the charity shop concept. By appealing to designers and hot brands for donations (think past-season samples), her team has created a thrifting experience that's less Primark and more Prada…just the way we like it.

Despite considerable pre-opening buzz, the scene in Westbourne Grove still came as a surprise. The shop was the only place on the street boasting a line of people waiting to enter, and volunteers kept the atmosphere festive by distributing cupcakes and Vita Coco to those queued up.

Inside, a quick browse turned up a purple Antonio Berardi cruise dress for £300 ($372), a £195 ($240) Bottega Veneta purse, and one pitch-perfect midnight navy chiffon dress with sequin underlay by Betty Jackson for £70 ($87). Sunglasses by Stella McCartney, Dior and Chanel jostled with V&A teapots, and plenty of Prada shoes (too small, alas), filled the remaining shelf space.

Committed bargain hunters arrived early—the first woman through the door waited outside from 8:00 am, snapping up a new Mulberry Alexa bag in dusky pink leather with snakeskin trim for £300 ($372). That purchase buoyed the takings to £2,500 ($3,100) in the first hour, halfway to the opening day goal of £5,000 ($6,200). Volunteers quickly
converted the staff bathroom into a second fitting room to keep up with the pace of shopping.

But there were still gems an hour in—a nearly full Chanel cabinet attested to that.