miércoles, 23 de junio de 2010

Hip Hop Chambray…Ho…11 Chambray Looks for Summer” y 10 mas

Hip Hop Chambray…Ho…11 Chambray Looks for Summer” y 10 mas


Hip Hop Chambray…Ho…11 Chambray Looks for Summer

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 03:52 PM PDT

For some reason whenever we think of chambray that Naughty By Nature song gets stuck in our head.

No matter.

The point is that chambray is big this summer and we’re happy about it. The chambray work shirt is classic 1930s Americana. It’s sexy and rugged and a staple for the season. And while there’s no messing with a basic like the two-pocket button down, we’re happy to see this lightweight cotton or linen fabric cropping up in different styles.

Click through for the best in chambray (and lightweight denim) for summer.



Catching Up With Handbag Label Be & D

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 03:30 PM PDT

With the death of the "It" bag well-documented, handbag designers need to create bags with staying power. Over the last six years, Be & D have quietly formed a niche for themselves in the luxury handbag market.

The Brooklyn label was launched in 2004 by Be Inthavong and Steve Dumain. Be has since left the company and Steve is now the creative director. Steve grew up in upstate New York on a horse farm, where he collected antique luggage. After living in Europe and South America, he developed an appreciation for art and sculpture. He did a stint as a screen writer before co-founding Be & D. A shoe collection launched in 2007.

The bags and belts are produced in their atelier on 36th Street in NYC's Garment District. Shoes are currently made in Brazil, though the company is looking for a bigger space and hopes to move all production to the US soon.

I've always been a fan of bags with lots of hardware, and Be & D made a name for themselves with the studded Garbo handbag line. This was well before designers started studding everything from sneakers to lingerie a few years ago, a trend which now seems to be in decline.

I visited their atelier today for a peek at the 2010 Cruise Collection.

The bags are for grown-ups. They're very ladylike, but a bit more directional. Be & D have almost entirely moved away from studs, though the signature hardware is still present. This season, it's chains. Steve was inspired by the Machine Age and 1940s travel fashion (think railroad and steamer trunks).

The bags are mostly neutrals, with a gorgeous cobalt blue thrown in. There was a particularly interesting subtle animal print that was neutral yet unique. What I really loved was the functionality of each piece. Many bags had shoulder straps and tons of zippers and compartments. And the chain detailing was divine. Chain was woven into the handles, used as whipstitching on a gorgeous envelope clutch, and deconstructed and used as accents on belts. Chains also had a more traditional role on demure shoulder bags, but the Be & D rep told me that Steve calls them his "ghetto chains."

The shoes had the same sensibility: quirky yet classic. A pair of cone heel booties with zipper detailing were great, and I have to admit I still love the studs on their signature Memphis flats.

This collection will be hitting stores October 15. You can find Be & D at Saks, Bloomingdale's, Nordstrom, and Shopbop. Shoes retail from $235-$498. Bags go for $400 for smaller models to $1300 for an exotic print. A bit pricey, but you could use these pieces forever.



Why Anna Wintour Gave Her Staff LeSportSac

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 03:00 PM PDT

LeSportSac confirmed that Anna Wintour recently gifted her Vogue staff the brand’s totes in platinum ($98) and patent leather ($88).

So it’s no ten grand plus an iPad (Hi Oprah! We love you too! Winkface), but it’s something.

Why LeSportSac?

Turns out the Voguettes (who, we’re sure, are desperately in need of another bag) can thank Pat McGrath.

The legendary make-up artist and LeSportSac designer recently showed Wintour her collection.

“Anna loved it and got reacquainted with our brand and hence made the request.” says Paula Spadaccini, spokesperson for LeSportSac.

Seems a bit random, sure, but who are we to look a gift horse in the mouth, especially when that gift horse is Anna Wintour?



Who Wore It Better: Kissed by a Rose

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 02:30 PM PDT

Pam Anderson and Heidi Klum were both spotted in this Phillip Treacy upside-down rose number. Which blonde bombshell wore it better?



Thierry Mugler’s New Fragrance Smells Like Figs and Caviar, Can be Refilled

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 02:00 PM PDT

Yesterday afternoon we headed over to Clarins’ offices for a preview of Thierry Mugler’s new fragrance. What we got was an incredibly in-depth and surprisingly interesting tutorial on all that went into the fragrance, which was apparently a lot of time, money and planning. The execution of the preview itself blew us away. Everything in the room, from the lighting to the cocktails to the liquid inside the perfume bottles, was pink. The hors d’œuvres included caviar and figs, which we would later come to find out out are two of the scent’s main ingredients.

The name of the fragrance is, um, Womanity. There was a whole lot of waxing philosophical on the inspiration behind this name, which we will spare you. However, we did find it pretty hilarious that Donna Summers, unaware of Mugler’s fragrance, is apparently coming out with a song called “Womanity,” and the people at at Clarins/Thierry Mugler are desperately trying to work out some kind of collaboration.

A video that made us feel like we were in a high school chemistry class gave us a crash course on molecular distillation, an apparently ground-breaking fragrance technology that Mugler is the first to use. It allows one to, in essence, clone the actual aromatic molecules of an original substance (in this case, figs and caviar), so that there is no discernible difference between the molecular distillation and the product from which it was extracted.

Pierre Aulas, the “Olfactory Artistic Director” for Mugler and our resident expert then passed out scent strips of the pure molecular distillations of fig, caviar and wood (the caviar smelled awful), followed by Womanity, a surprisingly successful amalgamation of all three. It smelled good, a little strange and I kind of wanted to eat it. It also smelled noticeably different on my skin than on the scent strips.

The bottle is simple glass with something called patinated zamak at the top, which features the molding of a face. Given the name, we were just glad the bottle wasn’t the outline of a woman’s torso. We were also impressed by the measures to keep Womanity eco-friendly, which included placing the info on the inside of the package (as opposed to a separate leaflet) and the option to have your bottle refilled at any participating Thierry Mugler counter.

Although marketing for Womanity began four months ago with the launch of Womanity.com, there is no “face” of the fragrance because Womanity is for all women. The eau de parfum, shower gel, body milk, body cream and deodorant spray will be available at Bloomingdale’s August 1 and Nordstrom October 1, but if you can’t wait nine days and are willing to spend $28 on something you’ve never smelled, a special limited edition 10ml size of Womanity is available here. If you like it, we suggest waiting until October to buy, when, in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, 100% of proceeds will go to the “Look Good, Feel Better” program to support Breast Cancer.



Street Style: Margaux is Une Femme D’ete

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 01:00 PM PDT

Name: Margaux

Age: 16

Where are you from originally? France

What is your current favorite song? “Mama” by My Chemical Romance

What is your favorite store in NYC? Topshop!

What is your favorite food? Salad

If you were able to get a tattoo today, what would it be? A star on my neck.

Where are you headed now? Shopping

Where is your bag from? Zara

**All photos by Ashley Jahncke.



Poppy: Coach’s Answer to Clinique Happy

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 12:15 PM PDT

It's summer, so put away your serious fragrance and try out peppy Poppy. Poppy is the new fragrance from Coach, and it will launch July 1.

Much like the colorful and playful handbags and accessories that distinguish Poppy from the more classic Coach styles, the new Poppy fragrance is meant to be the fun little sister of Coach Signature.

We popped by Rescue Beauty Lounge this morning to smell it for ourselves. Poppy is a fruity floral, and the Coach exec describing the notes incorporated in the scent made us want an ice cream sundae. Candied rose petals, vanilla, "crème brûlée accord," and whipped marshmallow were all mentioned.

It's definitely a sweet and fruity scent, and we're predicting it may be the next generation’s answer to Clinique Happy.

Half of the fun of perfume is the bottle, and this one is girly and lighthearted. Clear glass showcases the light pink liquid inside, and it's topped off with a red ribbon and red Coach logo. The packaging is done in the faux-graffiti that is popular in the Poppy line.

We say: Put on a sundress, spritz some Poppy, and meet us at the shore.



Could Balenciaga Sue BeyondtheRack.com For Selling Unauthorized Merchandise?

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 11:16 AM PDT

It’s hard to keep track of the seemingly countless sample sale sites that promise designer labels and luxury brands at deep discounts. But can you trust them?

After hearing that La Lohan (red flag!) had purchased a “beautiful” Balenciaga bag at BeyondTheRack.com, reader Madeleine asked Balenciaga if the site was authorized to sell the luxury brand’s merch.

She got the following reply:

“Unfortunately, Beyond the Rack is not an official Balenciaga retailer. In order to guarantee an authentic Balenciaga product purchase, we recommend that you purchase from an official Balenciaga store or retailer.” Click on the image below to see the response:

BeyondTheRack.com countered with a tweet: “Even if not officially ‘authorized’, all we sell is authentic.”

Suspicious, no?

Blogger Vicky Sullivan had a similar experience wrangling with site Sassy City Chicks for selling what what she believed to be fake Fendi bags. “I didn’t actually buy the Fendi because I knew that there was no way it was real…it was fake immediately because it was too shiny and rough to the touch,” says Sullivan. Luckily, Haute Life PR, the company who runs Sassy City Chicks, has been responsive. President Isela Blair emailed Sullivan to say that her vendors “have never been accused of having fake merchandise,” and that she “takes this information very seriously,” and is looking into the allegations.

And as this morning’s settlement between Fendi and Filene’s illustrates, even established discount retailers like Filene’s Basement can’t always be trusted to sell authentic luxury brands–at least not directly from the retailer. Fendi settled with Filene’s Basement for $2.5 million over allegations that the retailer sold counterfeit Fendi, reports the AP.

Earlier this year, the luxury brand was awarded $4.7 million from Burlington Coat Factory and co-defendant Cohoes Fashion Inc. for violating an injunction which prohibited Burlington from selling Fendi without permission, according to WWD.

So what’s your take? Do you trust these lesser known sites?

We’ve reached out to Balenciaga and Haute Life PR and will update with any responses throughout the day.



Ask Chris Benz: How Do I Get Hired at a Top Fashion House?

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 10:40 AM PDT

Dear Chris,

First of all I have to tell you I LOVE your designs. Probably every email you get starts off with that, and to each it is true. I have your collections all over my inspiration board.

So now for the advice seeking part…. I graduated in 2007 (with a degree in fashion design) when there were hardly any jobs, and mass layoffs everywhere. I luckily worked steadily since then, doing lingerie, evening wear, costume, and now private label sportswear. I have really taken everything I have been able to get, as jobs have been pretty scarce to come by. I can’t even think about the amount of times I worked for free, not including interning during school.

Now I am at the point where I am still kind of young, but I have been getting seriously down about my job. I am a super, super, creative person and I feel like it’s Groundhog Day and I am being slapped in the face with big shirt after big shirt from QVC. It is like a nightmare.

I have learned a lot in my experiences, but I need to move on. I am trying desperately to change this dismal future, into the dream that got me through my BFA in fashion design in the first place. I made a list of the top ten designer companies I admire most (in NY).

After work every night I have been coming home and creating projects specific to those companies to send out, sort of like my little own press kit or something. So my question is, am I wasting my time, do places like Chris Benz, or Marc Jacobs, look at things such as this? Is there any hope for someone who has experience but didn’t start as intern with the company? I am at my wits end because all I do is live and dream about fashion design. And I feel like my talent is being wasted at a place whose design ethic is so far from my own. Please let me know what you think?

Thank you!

GroundHog Day

Dear Groundhog Day -

I get the impression that you're a smart cookie, which is a terrific attribute to have in the dizzying world of fashion. Being able to observe yourself and constructive planning is key to your success. Enthusiasm and earnestness are equally as important.

With that said, it sounds like you're making yourself a little crazy getting lost in the details. If you're going to work someplace where you really connect with the vision of the collection, I wouldn't present them your own version of their own collection. Does that make sense?

It's best to demonstrate your skills and creative aptitude through examples culled from past experience and non-specific sketching and rendering. Since you have had so much work experience, there should be plenty of technical material with which to create a strong portfolio, and you can fill in some aesthetic fluff around the edges. In case you missed it in prior Q&A's, I'm a sucker for seeing procedural sketching and inspirations in a portfolio. Often these are as interesting and communicative as a fully finished illustration.

After going for an initial interview, you may be asked to complete a very specific project as a prospective employee, but I wouldn't present this right off the bat. You wouldn't want to convey in any way that there is something wrong with the company you'd like to work for, and that you would be the solution to that problem.

Like Isaac Mizrahi recounted in Unzipped, "There's only ONE star in a Helen Lawson production and that's HELEN LAWSON, and that's me, remember?"

xx
CB

Got a question for Chris? Email him on askchrisbenz@fashionista.com!



Fashion News Roundup: Mirlando Make It Official, Anna Can’t Walk Down Stairs, and Lily Cole to Quit Modeling?

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 09:45 AM PDT

Love in Full Bloom: Miranda Kerr and Orlando Bloom, also known as the most beautiful couple ever, are tying the knot. {Vogue UK}

Disappear Here: Acclaimed photog Douglas Friedman visited the Swiss town of La Côte-aux-Fées to photograph (quite beautifully) watchmaker Piaget’s 136-year-old facility. Douglas enlisted his friend, Bret Easton Ellis, to compliment the photographs with a beautiful short story about time. {NOWNESS}

Tim Tells All: According to his new book, “Gunn’s Golden Rules,” Tim Gunn has witnessed Anna Wintour being carried down a flight of stairs by bodyguards, as well as Andre Leon Talley being fed grapes and cubes of cheese, one by one. Vogue denied both stories. Who knew Gunn was so brave? {Huffington Post}

Balenciaga’s Retrospective: Speaking of Vogue editors, Hamish Bowles has curated an upcoming Cristobal Balenciaga exhibit. Called “Balenciaga: Spanish Master,” the exhibit will open to the public November 19 at the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute uptown. The Cut has a preview. {The Cut}

Lily to Retire?: Our favorite angelic redhead Lily Cole would quit modeling altogether if the right acting gig came along. Sad, but we look forward to seeing her on the big screen. {Vogue UK}



Derek Blasberg: ‘Coverage Was Never For Sale. Ever.’

Posted: 22 Jun 2010 09:16 AM PDT

I was tempted to leave this Derek Blasberg situation alone, but given the issues it brings up about the way fashion publishing works, I think it would be wrong not to address it.

For those of you who haven’t heard the story, here it goes: An editor over at Jezebel received a tip that fashion writer Blasberg asked YSL to pay him $2,500 to cover a party for Style.com, where he’s Editor-at-Large (usually a title that comes with a retainer).

According to our sources, Style.com’s freelancers receive, on average, around $100 for covering a party (and $25 for regular posts), but we’re assuming Blasberg’s retainer affords him a bit more. He is a fairly big name, after all, with a recently-published book and steady gigs with Harper’s Bazaar and V.

Blasberg told Jezebel that he was hired to consult on the party’s guest list. He covered the event the next day for Style.com. (And he hasn’t been paid–and will not be paid, according to our inside sources.) Did he promise coverage to YSL? I’m doubtful. No. Why would he? They assume he’s going to cover it. No bribery needed in this situation.

Besides, I’m highly doubtful that YSL would pay for coverage on Style.com, regardless of prestige. So here’s what it (presumably) comes down to: Blasberg gave tips on who to invite to the party, and was told he’d be paid for his knowledge.

Is this wrong? Well, it depends on how you look at it.

If this were any other industry–tech, oil, biochemicals–it would not be okay for a journalist to consult for a company that they also write about.

But this isn’t any other industry, it’s fashion. And in fashion, advertising and editorial content are more closely related than anywhere else. If you’ve ever been on a fashion shoot for any major magazine, there’s always a rack of clothes marked “advertisers.” It consists of the pieces stylists and editors must include in spreads due to advertising commitments. And I know plenty of writers, editors, stylists who regularly consult for big luxury brands.

However, because Derek’s writing was published online, not in a magazine, he’s–rightly or not–upheld to a different set of rules. He can thank the FCC for that.

(For the record, anytime I write about something I receive for free, I disclose that it was a gift. As does the rest of the staff. Not only because it’s the law, but because it makes me feel icky if I don’t say something. Do I think magazines should be upheld to the same standards? I’m not sure. I just think whatever the standards are, they should be the same for everyone.)

I’ve asked Derek, Alison Brod, and Style.com editor-in-chief Dirk Standen for statements. Alison Brod–who told Jezebel yesterday that she has not paid Derek anything, and never pays journos for coverage–said that she had further no comment, since it’s “Not a story.” As more statements trickle in, I’ll update.

Update:
Derek says, via email: “No, coverage was never for sale. Ever. That’s ridiculous to even insinuate, and one of the reasons I’m so upset by this whole debacle. I wouldn’t have a career if that were ever the case.”

Update #2: A source lose to the situation confirms what Derek has already said. “He never did the consultancy in the end and didn’t get anything from Alison Brod or YSL!”

And finally, I’ll turn it over to you, dear reader: What do you think? Do you care that Derek may or may not have been paid by YSL to sometimes gets paid to “consult”? Or is it just another “non-story” written on a slow news day?



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