Lela Rose Resort: We Can’t Decide What We Want More, Her Collection or Her Apartment” y 10 mas |
- Lela Rose Resort: We Can’t Decide What We Want More, Her Collection or Her Apartment
- Do Guys Still Wear Cologne? Our Intrepid Reporter Investigates
- Legendary Vintage Fashion Auctioneer Kerry Taylor on Madame Grès, Princess Di, and Why She Won’t Loan Out Dresses
- Street Style: Hanneli’s Day Off
- Hessnatur Offers Up Eviana, Miguel, and a Trip to Peru
- Rag & Bone Perfect the Cargo Pant
- Best Dressed CFDA Edition: Michael, Models, & Iris Apfel
- Ask Chris Benz: I’m a Magazine Intern on a Budget and Don’t Know What to Wear!
- It’s Official: Sally Singer is the New Editor-in-Chief of T
- Quote of the Day: In the Name of Sally
- Fashion News Roundup: Prabal’s New York, Brazil’s Blonde Exports, & Joseph Altuzurra is Tom Ford?
| Lela Rose Resort: We Can’t Decide What We Want More, Her Collection or Her Apartment Posted: 09 Jun 2010 07:00 AM PDT
Not just any tables, mind you. The glass tables were suspended from the ceiling and are actually stored up there when they don't need them for models to sit on. The wooden tables in the middle sink into the floor. This then allows enough room for dancing to music supplied by a DJ, who has his own booth–with ladder access–near the kitchen. The entire back of the first floor was done in varying shades of grey felt, and walls are covered with cheeky black and white photographs and prints. Upstairs, the kids have a large sunny bathroom, which is bigger than my first studio apartment. We peeked at Lela's closet, and promptly decided we wanted to be Lela's children. Or a pair of her boots. Other quirky features included a red Monopoly house-shaped elevator—for the family dog, Stitch. We were also treated to a view of the wine cellar/"tequila nook," complete with a vintage Scrabble board. Oh, there were clothes, too. Consisting mostly of dresses, which are Lela's bread and butter, the collection featured bright shades of citron and tomato. The clay colored sleeveless trench dress with patterned pockets was a standout. The models were all wearing shoes from Lela's Payless line, which were a bit nondescript. They were platform sandals with crisscrossed straps in either putty or black. Hardly offensive, but not very original either. All in all, it was a lovely way to spend an afternoon. Kudos to Lela Rose for the delicious assortment of iced teas on offer, too. Apparently she is a bit of a gourmet cook.           
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| Do Guys Still Wear Cologne? Our Intrepid Reporter Investigates Posted: 08 Jun 2010 04:00 PM PDT
The word cologne evokes images of greasy dudes in Ed Hardy t-shirts, teenage boys with more scents than sense, and clueless divorcees getting back into the "dating scene." This was my presumption when Fashionista asked me to look into the state of men's cologne, yet once I ventured down this particularly pungent little rabbit hole, I realized just how misguided that presumption was. Beginning with the name. "Cologne is a marketing word that Americans have been taught to use," says Chandler Burr, perfume critic for the New York Times. "The word 'cologne' in the U.S. means nothing. You should just call it 'scent'." So what's cologne? "Cologne is a very specific recipe," Burr adds. "It's a citrus with an aromatic effect; it's basically lemon, bitter orange, grapefruit, bergamot, and then maybe nutmeg or cinnamon added, maybe some other spice." What we're looking for then is men's “scent,” or “fragrance,” which unlike cologne (perfumes based in alcohol were not invented until 1370, in Hungary), has been around as long as civilization. As for where men's fragrances are now, there's no one answer: Sales are both up and down—and like the scents themselves, the devil is in the details. "The fragrance market has been in decline for several years," says Karen Grant, Vice President and Senior Industry Analyst for Beauty at National Purchase Diary, a group that tracks department store sales. "Men's fragrances were picking up around the time of the early metrosexual trend: 2001 – 2002. Then we saw a dropoff…. It's been in decline ever since." Throughout the 2000s, a celebrity would pop up with a fragrance from time to time, Diddy for instance, which would help drive sales. But these surges were ephemeral, and now the celebrity trend has faded completely. Last year, the sales of high-end men's fragrances (these are the scents sold at Sephora and in the big department stores, not, say, Walmart) hovered around $779 million, a 10% drop from 2008, which was 8% less than 2007. But just because the big stores are selling less, doesn't mean people aren't buying fragrances. "The one area of the market where we're seeing the most stability is in what we would call these 'niche' fragrances. Where it's very special. Those could be fragrances at Barneys or Saks, or even the higher end." While the big market, designer brand fragrances ("commercial…shit" Burr calls it), like Acqua di Gio, are still the bestsellers, they have also taken the biggest hit. They're losing younger customers to deodorant sprays, like Axe, and older more sophisticated clientele to the niche brands like Le Labo and Frederic Malle. "We don't sell much of Acqua di Gio. We don't sell a lot of Tom Ford," says Bettina O'Neill, VP of Cosmetics and Fragrances at Barneys New York (who, in fact, only carries the former as part of an arrangement with the Armani brand). "We find our customers don't want to smell like anyone else. More so men than women."
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| Posted: 08 Jun 2010 03:00 PM PDT
But there's another side to clothing auctions, one in which London-based fashion auctioneer Kerry Taylor specializes—museum-quality vintage and haute couture. This afternoon, Taylor is auctioning off more than 200 pieces of fashion history, including a group of Madame Grès gowns and a cache of Princess Diana-related ephemera. I stopped by the preview exhibition this weekend to chat with Kerry about her career in fashion auctioneering… …and when I arrived, she was in a meeting with an important client, so I took a few moments to peruse my surroundings. Picture a large room bordered with clusters of mannequins dressed in mint condition Jeanne Lanvin, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent creations, with rails and rails of Balenciaga, Mugler and Carven filling any remaining space. That's half of it. The moment when the experience upgraded from “gorgeous” to “jaw-dropping” arrived when I learned that not only could I photograph the goods…I could also TRY THEM ON! It was like a fashion exhibition without the stern reminders not to touch! Having previewed the sale online, I knew to head straight for Lot 166, an Ossie Clark red crepe evening gown from the 1970s. I tried it on, did a little twirl, and emerged from the ad-hoc dressing room my usual poised, unruffled self, just in time to see Kerry come back through the door. Here's our conversation (edited for length and clarity), along with images from the exhibition:
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| Street Style: Hanneli’s Day Off Posted: 08 Jun 2010 02:00 PM PDT
Occupation: Model/Photographer Where is your top from? Zara and my shorts are Vintage leather, from Screaming Mimi’s. How about your shoes? They are Alaïa. What is your favorite breakfast food? Norwegian dark bread with pâté, but when I’m in New York I have muesli for breakfast every morning. What CD do you never get sick of? Anything by Simon & Garfunkel What is your number one beauty product? Dermalogica’s Moisture cream…the whole Dermalogica line is the best! If you were to get a tattoo right now, what would it be? Hmm well, If I knew I would have already gotten it by now, haha. ** All photos by Ashley Jahncke.    
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| Hessnatur Offers Up Eviana, Miguel, and a Trip to Peru Posted: 08 Jun 2010 01:00 PM PDT
And while the brand has been quietly selling key basics in natural and organic cashmere, cotton, and wool for decades, its reputation was anything but cool. (In fact, some considered the clothes to be a bit dowdy.) To freshen the label’s look, it teamed up with fashion insider Miguel Adrover in 2008. The designer now does a seasonal collection, which has proved successful editorially–and on the retail floor. Now Hessnatur has scored another fashion coup: Eviana Hartman, the girl who's made green fashion cool through her Bodkin line, has collaborated with the brand for Fall 2010. She describes her new collection as more broad and less experimental than Bodkin. She wants her friends–and her mom's friends=–to be able to wear these pieces. But her aesthetic is definitely there. There was a hint of asymmetry and multi-functionality to the pieces. One funnel neck sweater could function as a hood, a wrap, or a scarf. Effortless. The collection was very slouchy and cozy, with a nod to grunge. Eviana acknowledges that. "Everything I do has a 90s feel," she says. This is just fine by us. The collection is neutral, with pieces ranging from a light slate to black. Another favorite piece was the boiled wool long motorcycle jacket ($248). It’ll look amazing worn over the equestrian-meets-motocross paneled leggings. Hessnatur doesn't have a brick and mortar presence in the US, but you can find the look online as of August 15. We also got to see Adrover's Fall collection, consisting of mostly wool and alpaca pieces. His clothes are a bit more structured and tailored, with a nod to menswear. There’s also an ethnic vibe, as reflected by the patterned sweaters. One huge draped cable knit sweater looked really inviting. In addition to these new designer offerings, Hessnatur is running a contest through July 1 to send two people to Peru for three weeks. While there, the winners will spend some time on the brand’s alpaca farm. It’s an amazing opportunity to learn more about organic garment production–and to hang out in Peru! Hessnatur still has plenty of room to grow its business in the US, and it’s seems like it’s on the right track to do so.     
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| Rag & Bone Perfect the Cargo Pant Posted: 08 Jun 2010 12:00 PM PDT
Unsurprisingly, there was plenty to love. The designers carried on with the wooly, layered military theme from Fall 2010, featuring lots of gorgeous knitted sweaters, exaggerated boyfriend blazers in plaid and tweed, a pair of tweed cargo sweatpants that looked too comfortable to resist, and a red silk work shirt that could be dressed up or down, much like the rest of the collection. The standout, however, was the new cargo pant, which is part of their basics line and available at the end of this summer. Now, I certainly enjoy the J.Brand cargo from afar, but the trendy zipper at the ankle keeps me from buying. Conversely, Rag & Bone’s cargo is long and lean with little embellishment. Much further up my alley. Enjoy the look book, but be warned: your credit card is in danger of being used!                  
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| Best Dressed CFDA Edition: Michael, Models, & Iris Apfel Posted: 08 Jun 2010 11:01 AM PDT
Iris Apfel, fashion’s most beloved icon, wears Balenciaga and Alexis Bittar jewelry, arriving with the CFDA award winning designer. Carmen Kass and Tonne Goodman rock Michael Kors, while models Jamie Bochert and Stella Tennant wear Marc Jacobs and Reed Krakoff, respectively.
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| Ask Chris Benz: I’m a Magazine Intern on a Budget and Don’t Know What to Wear! Posted: 08 Jun 2010 10:00 AM PDT
Welcome! So, in about a week I am going to start my summer internship at a very prominent fashion magazine in the city. As a college student completely surviving off of student loans, I have no money to go shopping and I certainly don’t own any of the designer brands featured in the magazine. I love style and the publishing world, which is why I am so excited for this chance, but what am I supposed to wear!!? Will I be laughed at if I wear a TJMaxx shirt? I know this sounds stupid, but it is seriously giving me anxiety. Help!! Dear Maxxed Out - First of all, get ready, because you are about to have one of the most exciting experiences you can imagine. Working for a magazine, especially in New York, over the summer, is an absolute dream! There are thousands of students out there that wish they were in your position, so fret not! When I was an intern, I too had to find creative solutions for my outfits. One good rule of thumb is to keep it SIMPLE and CLASSIC. Plain, classic clothes without logos or anything too loud are the right way to go. If you're feeling advanced, try to play with proportion: A small top with a very wide-leg trouser, or an over-sized top with tight, cropped pants. No one will fault you for being simple, clean, and chic. A penny loafer and a crisp white shirt go a LONG way. Likewise, my favorite watch is a plain digital Timex I got for a few dollars when I was an intern! Some of our most fabulous interns have dressed very simply, but played with inexpensive items to amp-up their looks. Obviously part of working in fashion is to have FUN and dress UP, so don't be afraid to layer inexpensive gold bracelets on both arms, paint your nails a novelty color, and always have a bright, eager smile. If you are gracious and hardworking, it won't matter whether you're sporting TJMaxx or couture. xx
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| It’s Official: Sally Singer is the New Editor-in-Chief of T Posted: 08 Jun 2010 09:31 AM PDT
Despite convincing rumors stating otherwise, Sally Singer is the new editor-in-chief of T magazine. That’s according to T’s digital director Horacio Silva, via the mag’s Twitter account. While there’s little to be excited about in glossies these days, Singer’s move to the New York Times pub defies that notion. Not only is the longtime Voguette smart and likable, she’s a master of content, which means T could become even more compelling than it already is. We’ve asked for a comment from Vogue, but haven’t heard back from them as of yet.
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| Quote of the Day: In the Name of Sally Posted: 08 Jun 2010 08:50 AM PDT |
| Fashion News Roundup: Prabal’s New York, Brazil’s Blonde Exports, & Joseph Altuzurra is Tom Ford? Posted: 08 Jun 2010 08:00 AM PDT
Prabal’s New York: These are Prabal’s five favorite spots in NYC, so start hanging out in them to catch a glimpse of the young designer. {Refinery 29} Who Loves Tom Ford: A CFDA member spotted some similarities between Joseph Altuzurra’s AW10 collection and Tom Ford for Gucci. Is it an AIC or just a crazy coincidence? {Chic Report} Bye, Bye, Bye: NYC label, Lutz & Patmos, is closing to “pursue other opportunities.” Lutz will design and consult while Patmos is launching M. Patmos for pre-spring. {The Cut}
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Steff and I took the subway one stop downtown to check out Lela Rose's Resort 2011 collection, which she showed yesterday in her newly renovated, gallery-like apartment. We walked into a huge open space with floor to ceiling windows and were greeted by models who were, 
Often the very best jokes are laden with insight, and one of my favorite such jokes belongs to Demetri Martin, who says, "It's interesting that 'cologne' rhymes with 'alone'." Zing!
Ever wonder where great vintage comes from? In some cases, it surfaces at auctions, where dealers can acquire trunk loads of frayed 1930s chiffon dresses for pennies against the final retail price.
Name: 
My first assignment post-
Chris,
Our dreams have come true.
Blond in Brazil: While Brazilian society is accepting of its racial diversity, model scouts are still targeting neighborhoods with Italian/German heritage to find blond, tanned, freckled beauties to send to NYC. When will Brazil’s model exports become as diverse at its expansive country? {| You are subscribed to email updates from Fashionista To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
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