domingo, 23 de enero de 2011

Givenchy Fall 2011 Men’s: Feeling It” y 2 mas

Givenchy Fall 2011 Men’s: Feeling It” y 2 mas


Givenchy Fall 2011 Men’s: Feeling It

Posted: 22 Jan 2011 08:22 AM PST

Paris–Fashion is never just about physical clothes: it's the manner that physical clothes conceal the human body and reveal the clothed body to others. A great fashion show is one that evokes our emotions, one that provokes and questions our consensus and our ideals. More importantly, fashion is an emotional reaction to how the clothes look and feel on oneself and on others.

For anyone who has followed Riccardo Tisci's work on menswear since his debut show in July 2008, the opening look–a long sleeved black shirt and shorts with bull dog prints, worn with opaque tights and leather high tops–has a ring of familiarity. They remind us of the black wool jacket, leather shorts, black knee tights and sneakers from back then. This silhouette and others–a chocolate knee length coat, leather vest worn with brown shorts, leggings and camel leather sneakers, a brown beaver short coat with dark brown shorts and lace up thigh high leather sneakers–are now Givenchy men's signature looks. In street talk, Mr. Tisci owned them.

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Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2011: Bond at His Best

Posted: 22 Jan 2011 08:00 AM PST

Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

PARIS–There's always a great danger when fashion designers base a collection around a specific theme and then made the clothes pertinent to their particularly chosen subject. The invitation to Jean-Paul Gaultier's Monsieur show–a white square with bull eyes and black figures in tuxedos carrying handguns with a fuschia "James Blonde" taped over the center target–solicits the possibility that Mr. Gaultier may overwhelmed in complying to the exigencies of the elegant style of James Bond as featured in countless movies over the past few decades. The James Bond films are essentially fashion movies as much as international espionage thrillers. The protagonist, 007, has a certain absolute style whether snorkeling, gambling, or rescuing a damsel in an enemy camp.

But when four dancers dressed as thieves pranced down the runway to the familiar Bond music and the first model emerged wearing a black fitted tuxedo carrying a gun in his right hand, followed by another in a sleeveless vest-skirt-pant wool suit, it was pretty clear that Mr. Gaultier has taken the task of fashioning a new wardrobe for a new James Bond, in this case Blonde, with utter seriousness.

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Agnes b. Fall 2011 Men’s: So Good

Posted: 22 Jan 2011 07:30 AM PST

PARIS–Finally, some fun! God bless Agnès Troublé (Agnès b).

Firstly, she fed us (sandwiches). Secondly, this was the most remarkable and courageous show I've seen so far. No bells. No whistles. No bullshit. Just great, colorful clothes following the smart and streamlined design aesthetic Agnès b. has established and kept to since the 1970s.

The first thing to notice as the show started was the classical guitar: no whining tones to indicate the coming thumping house beat, just simple strings. Next came the hats. Agnès had her models dressed as bohemian soldier boys, wearing Tricorne hats, bowlers, caps, ushankas and fedoras. But they weren't gimmicky. They accessorized a lavish tweed redingote, which fell to knees ensconced in velvet pants. Her black jersey jackets, with gold buttons and colored lapels, on top of the striped tees that made her famous, let us imagine the most carefree of deserters, brigands and thieves (the sashes may have been a little over the top, but I didn't mind).

But Agnès didn't get carried away with the past.

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