sábado, 22 de enero de 2011

Juun.J Fall 2011 Men’s: Big is Better” y 11 mas

Juun.J Fall 2011 Men’s: Big is Better” y 11 mas


Juun.J Fall 2011 Men’s: Big is Better

Posted: 22 Jan 2011 07:09 AM PST

PARIS–Bigness isn't a word I use all that often, but it's one of the overarching themes for Fall 2011: exploding shearling, walls of fur, linings upon linings, cable knits on sweaters like ropes on freighters. Korean designer Juun.J has embraced this facet of the season with gusto, adding multiple jackets to a single look, letting their sleeves hang on to other sleeves. But giving in to “more” with a certain eloquence.

The effect could be hexapodol, but the insectile looks carried way more weight than any bug. This was a fascinating collection, and made me wonder why Junn.J doesn't have more pickup in the US. There was fantastic tension in every look; the shearling interior and mohair exterior in one of his coat looked like they were attacking each other, straining for possession on the wearer's body. Same with the leather motorcycle jacket, lined with yet more shearling. And again with a down jacket encased in synthetic, but balanced out with wool.

There were also some individual pieces that I can't get out of my head: the first pinstripe jumpsuit I've ever seen, an oxford shirt with cashmere sleeves, and a science fiction-y grew wool sweater boasting the aforementioned extra pounds of wool.

All in all, big props.

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Issey Miyake Fall 2011 Men’s: Literary Paris, Reinterpreted Yet Again

Posted: 22 Jan 2011 06:40 AM PST

PARIS–On my way out of the show preceding Issey Miyake's Fall 2011 Men's collection, I stopped some serious fashion editors and asked if I'd see them there? I would not. "He doesn't do it anymore," one told me. "He" being Miyake himself, the techno wizard who merged science and fashion to cement his brand as Japan's finest sartorial export in the 90s. "It's nothing we haven't seen," said another.

I had trouble getting on board with the collection by Dai Fujiwara (who took over as creative director in 2006), but I think these editors missed out, and while the innovation might no longer be at the level it once was (this collection embraced nostalgia, if anything), the brand is still connecting East and West in interesting, if not entirely convincing, ways.

The theme of the collection was "pen" and the défilé centered on young men, arriving in Paris and endeavoring to write, following their stories through the writing instrument as vehicle.

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Nike Kicked My Ass With Its New iPhone Workout–But I Looked Good Doing It

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 02:58 PM PST

I love working out. There have been times in my life where I’ve been at the gym six days per week. Right now, it’s more like three days, if I’m lucky.

But I’m not very coordinated, and I don’t typically take group classes. (Although Core Fusion at Exhale Spa has won my heart.) Yet when the sneaker behemoth invited me to test out their new Nike Training Club iPhone app in a session led by Nike Master Trainer Marie Purvis and US soccer goalie Hope Solo, I was game. Mostly because I’m getting married in three months and want to look my best. Also because I had a feeling we’d be outfitted in some pretty nice kit, and I was right.

As we entered Nike’s space at Chelsea Piers, each session participant was given an iPod Touch, which we used to scan bar codes on the gallery-like walls. The bar codes transformed into short videos on the screen of the iPod, promoting the Nike 360 concept. Of course, the woman in the film looked incredible–amazing body, beautiful hair and skin–but it was her clothes and shoes that I couldn’t help but coveting.

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Fashion News Roundup: Gaga’s New Song and Video for Mugler, ODLR is Not Pleased With Mrs. O’s McQueen and H&M Creates a Collection Called ‘Waste’ With Lanvin Leftovers

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 02:08 PM PST

Gaga + House of Mugler: Check out Lady Gaga’s new song set to a video for her stylist Nicola Formichetti’s first show for Mugler. {Stylelist}

H&M Makes Waste Fashionable: H&M got all sustainable and created a mini collection called “Waste” out of fabric leftover from the Lanvin for H&M collection. Shame it’s nowhere near as cute as the Lanvin collection. {Nitrolicious}

Oscar de la Renta Is Not a Fan of Michelle Obama’s McQueen: We loved Mrs. O’s McQueen dress that she wore to the state dinner the other night (so did Cathy Horyn and Robin Givhan) but Mr. de la Renta thought it was the wrong choice. "My understanding is that the visit was to promote American-Chinese trade — American products in China and Chinese products in America. Why do you wear European clothes?" de la Renta told WWD. Michelle Obama has yet to wear ODLR but she did wear a dress by his son Moises once. Hmm…. {WWD subscription required}

It’s a Boy for Doutzen! VS Angel Doutzen Kroes gave birth to son Phyllon today. It’s her first child with husband Sunnery James. He weighed in at 8 lbs–not even close to fellow angel Miranda Kerr’s Flynn who weighed nearly 10 pounds at birth. Maybe they can still be friends. {Modelinia}

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Street Style: Margot Says No Outfit is Complete Without a Can of Mace

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 12:48 PM PST

Name: Margot

Age: 23

Occupation:
Breast cancer research at Sloan-Kettering.

How would you describe your style? A mix of old and new.

What is your favorite place to shop?
Value World in Detroit. It makes the Salvation Army look expensive. You might even even find a crack rock in the pocket of a sweater there!

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American Apparel’s Most Provocative Ads from 1995 to the Present: An Evolution

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 12:16 PM PST

American Apparel’s ads have always been provocative but lately they’ve been grabbing headlines. Namely, the ad for sheer lace panties that showed the model’s pubic hair seemed to generate a lot of buzz. And then it seemed Dov Charney and crew did an about face–the next ad out showed none of the “t” and “a” [...]

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Dries Van Noten Fall 2011 Men’s: Manly Glamor

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 11:00 AM PST

Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

PARIS–Above the main entrance to the Musée Bourdelle, just past the sumptuous garden courtyard decorated with giants sculptures and the black metal “Hercules The Archer” in the walkway, are the carved inscriptions from
a letter sculptor Antoine Bourdelle had written to his former employer, teacher and colleague Auguste Rodin: "Dans la vie des sculptures un plan superficial est un incident mais un plan profound, constructif est une destinee." (In the life of sculptor a superficial plan is incidental, but a profound and constructive plan is a destiny.)

A constructive plan. The same could be said of Dries Van Noten’s Fall 2011 menswear show. Heroic! Gallant! New Manly Glamor! were the words used to usher in a new and more fashionable man at Van Noten's displahy of wool Spencer suits, long coats layered with detachable linings, and embroidered military cadets evening jackets, some dabbed with touches of extra lapels of fur or contrasting fabrics. Subtle design coupled with extensive research into fabrics sourced from all corners of the world has always been Mr. Van Noten's route to distinguished and wearable clothes.

The show opener–a dark navy wool coat with white cotton lining, crisp white shirt and navy wool pants–led a procession of multi-layered ensembles.

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Blackout Delays Givenchy Show By Over an Hour

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 10:36 AM PST

A power failure in Bercy–the site of Givenchy‘s show venue–delayed the start of their men’s show by over an hour, according to numerous tweets from GQ, Cathy Horyn, WWD and Style.com. According to Cathy Horyn’s twitter, the show has finally started–PHEW–after an hour and a half delay. But here are some of our favorite tweets from the Givenchy blackout of 2011:

I think GQ wins.


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Rick Owens and Kris Van Assche Fall 2011 Men’s: Leather, Legs, and Long Locks

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 10:04 AM PST

PARIS–Rick Owens and Kris Van Assche might seem like stylistic opposites, but both their shows forecast a gentle, ergonomic warrior coming from a not-so-distant future. Think bare calves, leather on wool and flowy hair. (Did I just hear Emmanuelle Alt?)

Rick Owens introduced neo-Goth to the fashion planet a few years ago–and since, the whole world caught on: walk on any high street and you'll find a gazillion brands stocking leather, sheer and black, black, black. So when you are Rick Owens, where do you go next? The designer has chosen a mature, controlled path. His collection shown last night in Paris included kimono folds (a tad like Haider Ackerman's last woman collection), grey hues, softer wools, slipper-like shoes: more inner peace, less outer chaos.

"I'm not in the same place I was five years ago. I feel that what I've shown today is very different from when I started, and will be too in another five years," Rick Owens told us after the show. "A designer always evolves. There is a sense of continuation but also of constant movement–but at core you just have to stay true to yourself."

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Fragrance Friday: Heidi Klum Is “In” At Coty, Orlando Bloom Is An Orange Man, And Vincent Cassel Wants To Seduce You For YSL

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 09:25 AM PST

It wouldn't be a Friday without some celeb fragrance news.

Heidi Klum Gets A Scent: We're frankly surprised that it took this long. Heidi's new fragrance, Shine, will launch in September 2011. There's no information about what the fragrance will actually smell like.

She has already worked with Coty, who's producing the scent, on Euro makeup brand Astor, but this will be her first foray into the American beauty market. Heidi told WWD that her dad was a marketing director at a cosmetics company and she interned there when she was 13. Perhaps a full color line is next?

And any bets on whether or not the next batch of Project Runway designers will have to create a look inspired by Shine?

Orlando Bloom Is Not A Model:

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Last Night’s Party: Club Monaco Courts Cool Kids With the Help of Ryan McGinley

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 09:00 AM PST

Club Monaco’s Spring 2011 collection, full of summery day-to-night pieces in warm neutrals and cheeky pastels, is a youthful range that perfectly embodies photographer Ryan McGinley’s style of capturing a moment.

For the Spring 2011 campaign, the label enlisted 19 style setters, whose varying personal style represents the brand’s dedication to fresh fashion, to be shot by McGinley. They include Lou Dillon, Lauren Hutton, The Virgins' frontman Donald Cummings, and artist Mitch Ferrin, to name a few.

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News in Vogue: MMB Gives Up the Index, Proenza Pretty Much Confirms Its Partnership With Andrew Rosen, and Anna + Blake, Again?!

Posted: 21 Jan 2011 08:00 AM PST

I received my February Vogue in the mail yesterday, and I’ve got to hand it to them, it was a fantastic issue. There were some lovely little tidbits in there that I’m happy to share:

Meredith Melling Burke is no longer the editor of the Index pages. Fashion market editor Jessica Sailer has taken on the task of putting together those back pages. As the Index is one of my favorite sections in Vogue, I noticed that MMB’s byline was missing in the January issue. This time around, AW announces in her editor’s letter that Sailer is newly in charge. MMB seems to be focusing more on the web these days. We hear from the inside that she’s the one everyone at Vogue.com is really reporting to, not Candy.

In his profile of Proenza Schouler, fashion news director Mark Holgate says that the duo is about to sign a deal with Andrew Rosen, Theory CEO and Rag & Bone investor.

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