martes, 20 de abril de 2010

Anna Wintour’s “Intellectual Crush” on Irving Penn, and More From Last Night’s Lecture at Pratt” y 11 mas

Anna Wintour’s “Intellectual Crush” on Irving Penn, and More From Last Night’s Lecture at Pratt” y 11 mas

Anna Wintour’s “Intellectual Crush” on Irving Penn, and More From Last Night’s Lecture at Pratt

Posted: 20 Apr 2010 06:59 AM PDT



Last night's Pratt Institute tribute to Irving Penn was one for the books: Anna Wintour gave a moving 20-minute tribute to Penn's life and work, and Hamish Bowles taught what was virtually a master class on the style and genius of Vogue photographers since Edward Steichen.

The event was part of Pratt's President's Lecture Series. Organizers said they received 2,500 RSVP requests for 504 seats—the most of any lecturer in the 16-year-old series since Yoko Ono.

What made it so special was Wintour's obvious esteem for the reserved photographer and the anecdotes she told from their 20-year relationship:

  • They didn't exactly strike up an easy rapport when Wintour became editor-in-chief. "I was in awe of him," she said, and was drawn to the "biting wit" of his photos—she called Penn a "seductive" man on whom she immediately had "an intellectual crush." But she also compared the early years of the partnership to a tentative first-date: "It took me some time to realize how important he would be to Vogue, even beyond the photographs."

  • The turning point for Wintour was Penn's 1990 photo, "Cleopatra's Eye" (a haunting close-up of a kohl-eyed beauty with a color-blocked snake): "When that photograph came in, it opened my eye to the greatness he had," she said.
  • Wintour detailed how Penn would arrive to work each morning in elegant street clothes–complete with a trilby hat–change into jeans, and greet everyone in the studio before he started his day. In the evenings, he did the reverse: he bid everyone adieu, changed back into his pristine street clothes, and walked home.
  • In Penn's later years, the two of them met frequently for lunch at Union Square Café or Il Cantinori—the only two restaurants where he'd agree to eat. Wintour said those lunches were always the same: during the appetizers and first course, Penn would bemoan the current state of Vogue—celebrity-driven coverage, too much text on the cover, over-styled models—but by dessert, he'd be asking, "So, what are we going to do next?"
  • Wintour outlined several of her most memorable Penn photos: His award-winning cover of Nicole Kidman in a backless Christian Lacroix gown, the wrinkled mouse in a vat of anti-aging cream, his portrait of Julian Schnabel, an "unimaginably intimate" shot of his bedside lamp.
  • She also bemoaned his shy personality (over decades of working for Vogue, he attended only one Christmas party—at the then-edgy Spy Bar in SoHo): "His humility made it hard to celebrate him…He wanted to be invisible."
  • By the end of the lecture, her voice cracking, Wintour called Penn a beacon for everyone at Vogue: "He made me a better editor. He was always in my head…. Irving's gifts to us will not end."

After the address, Bowles' treated photo-buffs to a walk through the Vogue photo archives, chronicling images from Beaton, Mainbocher, and Horst P. Horst to Avedon, Leibovitz, and Weber. He shared several funny anecdotes about the process behind some of the more recent shots—Stella Tennant's famous tweed-clad dive, for instance, was born out of her complaint of modeling tweed in July heat.

The evening closed with Wintour answering a handful of pre-selected questions from Pratt students. Most were softballs about CDFA and sustainable fashion. Her response to a query about the role of bloggers and Tweeters in the fashion world?

"We laude as much coverage on fashion as possible—we don't care where it comes from," she says. "But with all the noise, it actually helps Vogue, because we have authority."


Could a “Gift With Purchase” Save the Magazine Industry?

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 04:45 PM PDT



I think I may know how to save the American magazine industry.

Well no, really, I don’t, but I do have an interesting theory.

Let me explain: In Tokyo, grocery and convenience stores don’t carry Vogue Nippon and Elle. They stock teen titles, general interest pubs and an interesting item called an E-Mook.

Essentially, today’s E-Mook (mook is a shortened word for a cross between a magazine and a book) is a designer look book packaged with some sort of complimentary item, like a cotton tote or a makeup bag. Or, in the case of the Marc by Marc Jacobs version, a towel. They cost around $15. Everyone from Cath Kidson, to Marc to See by Chloe releases these.

I bought a couple for “research,” including the Milk Fed 15th anniversary book. (Yes, Milk Fed, Sofia Coppola’s amazing mid-’90s fashion line, still exists in Japan.) It came with a really nice canvas tote emblazoned with the Milk Fed logo, as well as a look book featuring the spring collection. I also got the Nimes E-Mook, accompanied by a stripey bag.

These novel items got me thinking about the free gifts that come with British magazines. Britt says that she’s never bought something off the rack just because it comes with a free gift, mostly because said gifts are usually crappy. I must admit that I have. I got a very nice Orla Kiely passport holder once, as well as some delicious orange-flavored milk chocolate.

In general, though, the gifts are sub par. But they still get me excited. This may be because I’m a shopaholic, or it may be because like most consumers, I like to feel that there is “value” being “added” to my purchase.

This lead me to wonder: Why don’t American magazines regularly offer a “free gift with purchase”? This marketing tactic has proved effective over and over again.

It may not save the magazine industry, but it might increase newsstand sales.

Would You Wear A Headpiece?

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 03:30 PM PDT



Last Thursday night, I hopped over to the release party of The Block Magazine’s fashion issue at Lower East Side boutique International Playground. Among the hoards of cool kids looking “I don’t care” chic, I noticed one girl sporting a giant mirror on her head.

My first reaction was to love it. She kept the rest of the all-black outfit perfectly simple, and her classic makeup combination of black liquid liner and a red lip made her seem like a Jetsons-inspired pin-up girl.

Among the flocks of similarly dressed hipsters, her reflective accoutrement was a ray of light.

Indeed, headpieces are having a moment.

First, Tavi’s bow caused issues at Dior couture, then Hanneli sported some layered disks at NYFW, and Jean Charles de Castelbajac added antlers to his Bambi inspired collection.

And who could forget Abbey Lee’s feathered spread in Numéro #109? If there was ever a reason to be tar and feathered, I think this is it.

While the right headpiece can make a look truly fantastic, the general populous still thinks it’s more freak than chic. Personally, I’d love an arty topper, like one of Benoit Missolin’s gorgeous headbands, but I’d probably still feel a tingle of self-consciousness leaving the house.

What would you do?

Adventures in Copyright: Rosegold Is Not Miu Miu

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 02:45 PM PDT



I was scrolling through sandals on Shopbop and thought, “Wow! When did they start carrying Miu Miu?”

I clicked through (to the same wedges I’ve been clicking on for a month) and thought, “Wow! When did Miu Miu shoes start costing $168?”

Well they didn’t, and they’re not Miu Miu. They’re by a brand called Rosegold. We’ve never heard of the brand, so it’s impossible to comment on their past transgressions, but we do know they managed to whip up these copies incredibly fast. It’s rare to see a rip off of a seasonal product hit shelves while the original’s still for sale.

The Miu Miu’s are on sale at Bergdorf Goodman for $650, and they’re identical.

Like to Write? Like Us? Want to Intern?

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 02:02 PM PDT



We need a perfect intern, starting now.

You must:

  • Like to write. We love stylists & graphic designers & photographers, but interning at Fashionista is 85% writing.
  • Be available three days a week (Monday through Friday) from 11-4, give or take an hour on either end.
  • LOVE fashion. Like love fashion. You should know what Marc Jacobs has to do with Perry Ellis, but you should also know who Katie Hillier and Marie Amelie Sauvé are. You should know which buyer snapped up Proenza Schouler’s graduate collection. You should know who styles the Prada show, who’s the Style Director of Elle and who edits Purple. You should know the name of Grace Coddington’s book and why Giles has been showing in Paris for the past two seasons. Those are the basics, we’ll teach you the rest.
  • Be a self-starter. The best part about interning at Fashionista is the freedom. It’s also the hardest part.

If that sounds like you, email work@fashionista.com with a brief cover letter and your resume (which should not be longer than one page) in the body of the email. Unfortunately, due to the sheer number of responses, we won’t be able to contact everyone, but if we think you’re right for the job, we’ll be in touch immediately. Thanks!

Salah Barka at Tunis Fashion Week

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 01:25 PM PDT



Some designers are as famous for the cheeky, multi-referential clothes as much as the ecstatic, Studio 54-like atmosphere of their catwalks. Paris has Andrea Crews, and London has Jeremy Scott. Now, Tunis has Salah Barka.

Salah took the crowd by surprise during Tunis fashion week when his models invaded the stage in enormous head pieces, fake eyelashes and Russian print harem pants-skirts matched with Berber jewelry. All to the sound of ‘Medusas’ by Prodigy.

Fashionista talks to the cool kid on the block about his long-distance infatuation with fashion, the Queen of Carthage and Tunisian tradition.

Who are you, and how did you end up in fashion?
I'm 35, I come from Gabes in South Tunisia. I'm completely self-taught. I previously worked as a costume designer, which is where the theatrical element comes from.

Your show seems to refer a lot to local history, artisanal know-how. Is this intentional?
Yes, the history of the region, 3,000 years of civilizations living, migrating, can still be sensed today, and is definitely one of my main points of interest. Also, characters such as Dido, the queen of Carthage–our local Joan of Arc–is a key source of influence in this collection.

Can you tell us more about the show?
Well, I wanted to translate the idea of cultural hybridity onto clothes. As for the production, all the models are my friends, and I made everything myself, all from my mom's home where I've set up a little studio.

And what influenced this collection?
The show is called 'Miles Away' because I try to bring together references miles away from each other, from Arabic tradition to London designers. Also, I've never left Tunisia, so 'Miles Away' is about the way I learn about fashion: From my village, from home, miles away.

Because Even Bull Riders Love Louis Vuitton

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 12:57 PM PDT




Sebastian Kim for Muse.

What I Saw in Japan

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 12:01 PM PDT



I spent last week in Tokyo and Kyoto. While I was technically on a holiday, there’s so much fashion-related stuff going on that I couldn’t help but make a few observations. Click through to see what I saw. Or at least the filtered version.

In the Market for A Free Bag?

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 11:01 AM PDT



Tell your friends about Fashionista’s weekly Off the Cuff newsletter and you’ll be entered to win a Rebecca Minkoff bag! The more friends of yours who sign up, the better your chances, so get to it.

One lucky winner will take home this Rebecca Minkoff Eyelet Nikki which retails for $680, courtesy of Designer Social.com, where industry insiders go to trade in last season’s bags and jewelry and buy the newest and hottest accessories of the season. Become a member with this exclusive invite from Fashionista to see how the fashion industry trades in, and trades up! www.designersocial.com.
Click here to enter!

The Mysterious Disappearance of Tracy Feith

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 10:01 AM PDT



Last summer, Tracy Feith was everywhere: On Michelle Obama, in Target and at the Montauk Surf Lodge.

This season, we can’t seem to find the label. The designer’s New York and Los Angeles boutiques have closed, his Web site is down, and we can’t find any stores stocking Spring/Summer 2010 pieces. There was a big warehouse sale in January, but other than that, we haven’t heard from the label in about a year. We’ve tried to contact his partner, Susan Winget, but the email bounced back.

Our friend who runs Mrs-O.org, a blog that follows the style of MObama, tried the same–to no avail.

While we’re pretty sure Feith’s label hasn’t shuttered altogether–we’re told that he’s doing some pieces for the Montauk Surf Lodge’s shop this summer–it’s veered quite far off the radar. With so much buzz in 2009, it’s a strange time to lay low. Unfortunately, sometimes great press and marketing isn’t enough to keep a business alive. (See Maria Pinto for proof.)

Know anything more about what’s up with Tracy’s business? Email us on tips@fashionista.com.

Fashion News Roundup: Cruz Does Vogue & Uniqlo Moves Uptown

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 09:01 AM PDT



Holy Cheekbones Batman: The cover of Penelope Cruz’ French Vogue is out. Without reading the captions can you even tell who else is photographed? French Vogue’s making up for the rest of the world’s lack of airbrushing this month. {Fashionologie}

Sketchy or Smart: People StyleWatch is one of the most successful ‘fashion’ magazines right now. It’s also blurring the line between fashion and advertising—and good luck figuring out which is which. {NYTimes}

Movin’ On Up:Uniqlo’s signed the lease on Brooks Brothers’ old 5th Avenue space. They’ll pay $300 million in rent over the next 15 years. {BusinessWeek}

Benetton’s Back: Benetton scoured the world for 20 new models, and threw a bash at the top of the Standard to celebrate. The campaign itself was shot at Industria on Friday, and their hoping it recalls their glory days, aka the 90s. {theMoment}

Coachella Chic: Didn’t make it out to Cali this year? Neither did we. And these street style shots from the festival are making us very, very jealous. {Refinery29
}

Working Girl: Leighton Meester’s love of tight little dresses with chunky ankle boots is well documented here. {WhoWhatWear}

Is the New: Giles Deacon & Lindsay Lohan

Posted: 19 Apr 2010 08:23 AM PDT



Giles Deacon had lunch in Paris with a table full of Ungaro executives, including owner Asim Abdullah.

They ate at Le Relais Plaza on Friday afternoon, and we can only imagine how difficult it was for Abdullah to explain why they hired Lindsay Lohan in the first place and why Giles should ditch his own beloved label in favor of the disastrous house of Ungaro. Unless of course he gets to keep his own line, too.

Imagine the things Giles could do with Ungaro’s seemingly bottomless budget?

He could send burlap sacks down the runway and it’d be genius compared to this past year’s collections. He could design genius bags, and actually produce them. Even heart-shaped pasties might look good in his hands.


Publicado por en

No hay comentarios:

Publicar un comentario

Suscribirse a: Enviar comentarios (Atom)