Viktor and Rolf Fall 2011: Red in the Face and Ready for Battle” y 10 mas |
- Viktor and Rolf Fall 2011: Red in the Face and Ready for Battle
- Haider Ackermann Fall 2011: Into the Spotlight and Ready for Dior?
- Quote of the Day: SNL’s Galliano is Winning, Duh
- Andrea Crews Fall 2011: A Fashion Rave In the Pigalle
- Gaspard Yurkievich Fall 2011: Impeccable Tailoring and Shameless Bling
- Vionnet: Smiling Dresses
- March Mood Board
- Vivienne Westood Fall 2011: Going for Gold
- Dior Fall 2011: A Reflection
- Lanvin Fall 2011: Rooted
- Racked Dealfeed: Richard Chai’s First Sale Ever!
| Viktor and Rolf Fall 2011: Red in the Face and Ready for Battle Posted: 06 Mar 2011 06:40 AM PST
The photo pit at l’Espace Ephemere in the Tuileries, impatient with the delay at Viktor and Rolf, began singing, shouting, whistling (there was some raising of middle fingers, too)–anything to spur the lights to dim and the show to start. As if to answer the photogs’ lewd taunts in kind, a draw bridge lowered, angry militaristic music began pumping through the tent, and red-faced models marched down the runway. It was a little scary. I would not want to do battle against Viktor and Rolf’s army of lady warriors. Their armor–leather or stiff chiffon-plated dresses with shoulders that were exaggerated or cut out completely, high collars, and sharply pleated skirts–looked impenetrable and almost reptilian. Black stockings had blood red seams running up the back and the voice against the percussive soundtrack pleaded “hurt” over and over. I don’t know who will wear this stuff (maybe Daisy Lowe, La Roux or Leigh Lezark, all of whom sat front row??) but I do not want to mess with them. Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Haider Ackermann Fall 2011: Into the Spotlight and Ready for Dior? Posted: 06 Mar 2011 01:49 AM PST
PARIS–In every one of Haider Ackermann's shows, the soundtrack is key: he pays as much importance to the music as to the silence between the notes. His catwalks frequently kick off to no more than the noise of models' heels echoing on the floor, as this one did. It’s a melodic reflection of his style: he often begins by a pared down, understated silhouette, building into a slow crescendo of tailoring, intricacy and unveiling of the female figure. Last season, Haider Ackermann introduced some bright splashes of color onto his usually somber designs; at the end of the catwalk, the Belgian designer told us the Ackermann girl was "ready to come out of the shadow." The season, Haider's femininity is out of the shadows indeed, and standing in the spotlight: the collection, shown yesterday in Paris's Palais de Tokyo, comprised of a multitude of rich tones–there were deep teals, white and cream, silver silk and burgundy leather (ok, he's not quite into neon shades either, but we did spot some glitter). Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Quote of the Day: SNL’s Galliano is Winning, Duh Posted: 06 Mar 2011 01:30 AM PST
–Taran Killam as John Galliano on Charlie Sheen’s (played by Bill Hader) talk show, Duh! Winning!, the opening skit on SNL last night. Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Andrea Crews Fall 2011: A Fashion Rave In the Pigalle Posted: 05 Mar 2011 03:56 PM PST
PARIS–For those of you who don't know Maroussia Rebecq aka Andrea Crews, she is what Christopher Kane is to England-–except she shows in a city where, unlike London, experimentation is rare and often frowned upon (trust me on that one, I grew up in Paris, and anything but black received a cold sneer). Her brand is also an art collective: not only does the designer and her team make clothes mostly out of recycled garments, but they also have frequent, wild performances all over town. By now, Maroussia's shows are known to be the most eccentric and humorous of Paris Fashion Week. Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Gaspard Yurkievich Fall 2011: Impeccable Tailoring and Shameless Bling Posted: 05 Mar 2011 01:00 PM PST
PARIS–Last men's fashion week, Gaspard Yurkievich was a no-show as his company was going through major restructuring. When we saw him a few weeks ago, he promised he'd make it up to us during Ready-to-Wear–and he did. Yesterday afternoon, in a series of boudoirs at Christie's, male and female models confidently marched down his catwalk in looks that confirmed the Yurkievich we know is back indeed. His collection held the same balance of retro lines, impeccable tailoring and shameless bling–demonstrating, as always, a perfect knowledge of fashion history (he teaches in several Parisian universities), and a flare for old school glamor. Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Posted: 05 Mar 2011 12:03 PM PST
“When a woman smiles, then her dress should smile too,” goes the famous quote by Madeleine Vionnet, the inventor of the bias cut. But a beautiful dress can make its wearer smile too, and Rodolfo Paglialunga’s fall collection for Vionnet should do just that for anyone lucky enough to wear one of his creations for the French label. (Increasingly, it’s celebrities on the red carpet who flash a smile in their Vionnets–remember that incredible little black dress Emma Watson wore on her Harry Potter press tour?) For fall 2011, Vionnet presented its collection on stairs covered in a magic-eye-like pattern of lillies in black and white–a print found on several dresses in the collection, though in glorious technicolor. Electric blue was paired with bright orange, red with lavender. Loosely woven crochet skirts were paired with knit tops, belted with carefully folded obis. Quilted sleeves and a quilted wrap dress added to the textural mix, as did dresses and skirts in stripes of crochet knit alternating with sheer. And a shimmering electric blue lace-print dress with black paneling on the sides made me break out into a full on toothy grin. Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Posted: 05 Mar 2011 10:00 AM PST
Elsa Sylvan in Tush Spring 2011 Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Vivienne Westood Fall 2011: Going for Gold Posted: 05 Mar 2011 09:30 AM PST
Vivienne Westwood titled her fall 2011 collection for her Gold label, “World Wide Woman.” “Fashion is global, influence comes from everywhere in the world,” read the line sheet. “You can wear anything in our part of the world. Anything goes.” And when Vivienne Westwood says “anything goes,” she means it. Models walked down a glittering gold runway in boots covered in gold paillettes so that their feet nearly blended into the catwalk. Drawing your eye up from the pretty glitter of the runway came as a bit of a bit of a shock: models’ faces were painted white and smudged messily and heavily with black over their eyes, noses and mouths like they were extras at Marilyn Manson’s “Dope Show.” Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Posted: 05 Mar 2011 08:40 AM PST
Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt. PARIS–When the lights dimmed on this bright sunny Friday afternoon inside a black tent erected on the courtyard of the Musée Rodin, there wasn't the customary loud music and a model already posed at the end of the runway ready for action. Instead, Sidney Toledano, the CEO of Christian Dior, came on the stage to give a speech in French. With elegant but somber words that somehow felt more emotional in French than a translation would allow, Mr. Toledano summarized the "painful" events of the past few days that shook the fashion world in a rapid and unforeseen manner. As readers of this site are undoubtedly aware, Dior fired its designer John Galliano for anti-semetic remarks at a bar against a French couple and in an undated camera phone recording that surfaced last Monday in a London tabloid, sold for personal profit by an anonymous individual to the Sun tabloid. "The heart of the house of Dior, which beats remain unseen, is made up of its team and studios, of its seamtresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and vision of Monsieur Dior. Ce que vous allez voir maintenant, le résultat de leur immense travail. What you are seeing now, the result of their immense work." With these words, Mr. Toledano yielded the stage–a backdrop reproduction of the grey wall offices at the Avenue Montaigne headquarters–and Karlie Kloss emerged from behind the faux salon doors wearing a large brown cape draping over her cropped leather jacket, purple sweater, and midnight blue velvet pants neatly tucked into thigh high leather boots. Ms. Kloss led the show with her cape flowing in the air. This time her moves were tempered by the soft and un-melodramatic music, her make-up nude rather than painted like some figurines. With 63 looks, the clothes certainly took center stage: there was Coco Rocha in a gray short sleeve double breasted flare jacket and a red print dress; Vlada Roslyakova in red tiered layers of ruffles; Lee Hye Jung in a khaki cotton layered dress; Iris Egbers in a sensible green plaid jacket over a short printed dress. Surely the men and women from the studios and ateliers who created these garments and who took a bow on stage at the end of the show should be proud of their accomplishments and their meticulous work in making these outfits. Yet despite the dazzling choices of clothes, designer fashion requires an imaginative narrative without which even the most elaborately constructed garments are just mere clothes that in a few months' time we will forget. Over his 14 years at Dior, Mr. Galliano provides us with that precise plot season after season, like a bedtime story taking us away from the utter banality and mundane business of fashion. Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Posted: 05 Mar 2011 07:44 AM PST
PARIS–The set for Alber Elbaz's fall 2011 collection for Lanvin was a big old gnarled southern live oak covered in Spanish moss and hung with fog–its thick knotted roots seemed to suggest the importance of tradition, of staying rooted within the label’s history. It set the tone for the serious, moody collection that followed. Severe yet elegant silhouettes opened the show–cape-like tops over simple skirts and boxy cashmere coat-dresses with zipper pocket details were paired with oversized gaucho-style hats. Elbaz added a touch of hardware, too, affixing heavy metal embellishments to the front of LBDs. Color–red, mustard, fuchsia, navy (there was a black and white rose print,too)–was introduced towards the end of the show on beautiful cocktail dresses with Lanvin’s signature volume about the sleeves and shoulders, nipped and twisted at the waist. A collection that proves, once again, Elbaz is at the top of his game. And even though we heard that Riccardo Tisci would replace Galliano at Dior (and Haider Ackermann would take over at Givenchy), apparently there was some chatter that Elbaz was up for the spot, too. Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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| Racked Dealfeed: Richard Chai’s First Sale Ever! Posted: 05 Mar 2011 07:37 AM PST
Richard Chai Legacy Brooklyn Follow Fashionista on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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